Looking for a decent place to install my Wide Band O2 sensor bung. Any suggestions in the North West Fort Worth area.
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Looking for a decent place to install my Wide Band O2 sensor bung. Any suggestions in the North West Fort Worth area.
Stainless?
I took mine to a chain muffler shop. Picked it up an hour later. They didn't even want to charge me, but I slipped the guy who welded it a 20 on my way out.
stock except for a Borla.
Where are you welding the bung? Is that pipe stainless? Is the bung stainless? If so, I agree with Titus - take it to a local shop and they should do it no problem for cheap.
I can't weld stainless at the house right now, so I'm no help if it's all that (pretty sure the Borla is).
I was going to have it welded as close to the head pipes as possible. The whole exhaust system is stock except for the muffler which is a Borla. I'll hit up my exhaust guy on the west side of Weatherford and have him drop it in.
Do you have a stock header?
Take a magnet and stick it to the bung. If it is not magnetic then it's stainless.
Then stick the magnet to the exhaust where you want the bung. Again not magnetic then not stainless.
Whether or not you are welding stainless or not affects how hard this is to do.
http://www.glowshiftdirect.com/Tinte...uel-Gauge.aspx
I'll have him put it towards the end of the header.
Are you retarded? Instead of that Chinese shit you could have:
http://www.diyautotune.com/catalog/i...844-p-467.html
With the two outputs on the MTX-L you will probably save money since you won't need another bung welded in.
I didn't stay in a holiday inn last night but no I'm pretty sure I'm not retarded. However you may have just been classified as an asshole in my book. It's called tact. I don't mind being told I made a bad purchase however for someone to just come out an call me retarded is a bit of a dick move.
Sorry, but you're the guy who paid $200 for a Chinese wideband with one output.
That somehow makes me a "retard"? I'm not 100 percent familar with wideband gauges. I did know that regular air/fuel gauge wasn't any good and that you want a wideband. So I bought a wideband, don't really see that as a need to come in here and be a dick. But to each their own.
My question is what you plan on doing with the readings you get? What if it says you're completely off from where you need to be? You have no means to adjust it...? if it says you're dangerously lean, will you just stop driving the car until you get an adjustable ECU of some sort? Or will you shrug it off saying to yourself, "it has been running fine so far." Serious question too, not trying to be an ass.
I'll make my cheap ass come up off some money for a MSPnP lol.
Fair enough. ;) Was curious if you had a game plan or not.
Why do I need more than one output anyway? How many devices do I need to hook up to besides the gauge and computer??
I can't quote for some reason at work, so here it goes:
With two outputs, you can run one sensor and get a "dumb" NB signal to the computer and get a real WB signal to a gauge or whatever you want; both outputs are programmable to send any range you want. The MTX-L I posted actually has 3 outputs, one for the gauge which houses the controller, then two more outputs for whatever you want.
Not to defend his purchase (I agree it was a bad/unresearched choice, but I'm not getting into that), but the one he linked says it has the options to log WB output and send a NB output as well. I would *hope* the optional logable WB output is not a "you either get the gauge display or output to the ECU" type of thing, but I know it's entirely possible.
At the moment he can only use two outputs anyway: the WB gauge display and the NB signal to the stock ECU if he wants. I suppose he might have whatever device to get the output sent to his phone, but I'd be shocked if he knew that existed and didn't do more thorough research as to what WB setup to buy in the first place.
I'll also add that the Innovate wideband stuffs are the fastest and most accurate according to those in the know. It gives you more information than the competitors, you can program whatever ranges you want, you can adjust those ranges when calibrating with MAP-gas (but you don't need to), and you can easily tell when a sensor goes bad. You can also run leaded fuel with the MTX-L, which is cool for us weekend racers. It does everything better and the only pain is running the ground wires correctly.
Makes sense but is there any reason why a 2 output unit won't work? I didn't plan on taking out the stock o2 sensors.
What kind of software do ya'll use for datalogging?
Performance of the unit itself issues aside, you'll be fine with only two outputs. When I first made my WB setup, I only had it going to a gauge, not the LINK. It was a pain to tune since the ECU didn't see the WB info, but all it took was more time. Log, adjust, log, adjust, etc, instead of adjusting and logging live (and having the outputs on the same graph). That's how cars used to get tuned on a dyno before in-car WBs were cheap enough to purchase.
Reading the link you posted I get the impression that the gauge output is not considered an output. So you have the gauge, then the optional WB and NB outputs. So if that's how it actually is, that technically has 3 outputs.
I've got their oil temp and boost/vacuum gauge and have been happy with them so far. We'll see. Might be a learning experience in which case I'm only out some money and time........which seems to be what experience is made from lol.
Before someone breaks out the retard word again, you should go do some more internetting on this subject. Logging from the ECU really depends on the ECU itself: MS uses whatever the current logger is - MegaTuner or whatever; I (and assuming Titus) use Data Log Lab and RTLink for the LINK; Hyrda users probably have some kind of proprietary software...
If you're asking about datalogging with your current setup, I got nothing. A complete DEFI setup, maybe. Something along those lines. But they're all over the cost of an MS so kind of thinking they aren't good options for you.
I"m already shopping for used MS units. I downloaded the MS software from the website and am messing with it now.
Get on the miataturbo.net board and look in their ECU section. It's got all the reading that you might like to do.
You would be correct. I'm not 100 percent up to speed on everything that has to do with wideband gauges and didn't know you could do that. Everyone has to start somewhere. Not everyone that goes FI or gets a wideband gauge is going to be know everything about them. Ya'll seem to be very well versed in these things. Hence while I'm here asking questions.
I completely understand. I've made many many mistakes and bad purchases along the way, Miata related and not (hell, I still have Ground Controls with KYB AGXs on my car). It's all part of the learning curve. Figure out why it's bad/not the best, learn from it, and move on. Like you said, that's most of what experience is.
If poor purchasing decisions are being discussed, then I am the King of Retards. My garage and storage shed is full of incorrect impulse buys. Too embarassed to list them in a fs ad. Wait, anyone wanna buy a stylebar cheap?
My garage is as well lol.