Reply With QuoteKinda like THISOriginally Posted by driftdevil
Welcome aboard.
Sounds like the same thing Gary and I experienced with the Goodwin car. Turned out that it was the wheel bearing. I had to crawl onto the rear shelf to hear which side it was coming from. Not difficult to remove the spindle and the axle. Have a shop press in the new bearing.
Kinda like THIS
Welcome aboard.
05 MX-5 Mazdaspeed #1024 Titanium Gray Mica
Yep, and that oldYou got the pipe on?alytic converter was a B
TCH to get off. Even with a breaker bar I was grunting!
EDIT: Oh and the car is louder and sounds better now
09 Lexus RX350
.... no Miata
Oh my. I can't decide if that's funny or obnoxious. or obnoxious. or obnoxious. or obnoxious.
Never mind. I think I've got it...
Never heard of PB Blaster?Yep, and that old
Good.EDIT: Oh and the car is louder and sounds better now
Maybe they forgot to take the camera out.....
Highlight Silver & Tan 99"With a Style Bar"
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Member AARP & Meals on Wheels.....
Everything else just "Depends"........
troubleshoot - next thing to do is identify which rear tire makes the most noise, lift it up on jack stands and spin the wheel freely to see if you can still hear the noise...
10/30/06 - 93' black primered MX5 1.6L
Wiseco Pistons 9:1, Carrillo Rods, ARP head and main bolts, FM valves +1mm and stiffer springs, new lifters, main bearings, cometic head gasket, port and polish head, ready for boost....
Thanks, Mouglie. I tried that yesterday -- no noise coming from either one. Not sure if that's a killer for the bearing theory (never had this before) as there isn't a "load" on it. Might that even figure in??
GG,
Next time you drive the car for awhile, get under the rear (of the car, silly!) and feel the hub on both sides. Be careful, 'cause the bad one will be much hotter than the other. If they are equal, I would say it's not a bearing. Have you checked for a frozen brake caliper? Miatas are notorious for getting water in the slider and it freezes up. If this has happened, the inside pad will wear out pre-maturely. If all is ok on the outboard side, I would guess that a diff bearing is going. Is there any oil showing where either axle comes out of the housing? See if you can wiggle the axles and the driveshaft.
92 Sunny 214k, 95 Dimples, 93 James Bondo, 92 SM (Speedie Jr)
Shelley, Apex, Tigger, Max, Baby(cats), Fluffy, Spot, and Peanut (mini horses), Cinnamon & Bitsy(dawgs)
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If it is the brakes, you will be able to feel it in the pedal. Does the noise increase/change during accelerating? braking? turning(note direction)? Combination of changing speed and turning?
Right rear wheel bearing is my guess. I bet you can get a pre-pressed hub assembly at vato-zone or the like. It'll save you time and energy, but might cost more. Those places are starting to get into a "lifetime warranty" trend, so maybe the peace of mind is worth the extra dough.
1994 R-package - gone, but not forgotten.
1966 Toyota Land Cruiser FJ40. Restification in progress. or should I say De-RUSTification in progress?
1984 Honda VF1100S. V4 Fury!
No kidding! Everytime I switch the pads out I cover the sliders in grease and the next time I change the pads they're almost stuck again!Any good fix for this btw? I've used a couple different types of grease with no success.
Not with the rear. Simple press in bearing into the spindle. The front on the other hand is a pre-press hub assembly. Just hope ya don't have the problem I had with my rear hubs. The shop barely got the passenger side out and called me cause they were afraid of breaking the spindle if they tried any harder on the driver's side. I said I could get a new one if it breaks to try again, called back 10 min later and I had to pick up a new spindle from the salvage yard!
90 MX5 281k miles! - euro spec, Porsche Riviera Blue w/black hardtop, 97 motor swap, vintage Borbet rims, GC, FM shock hats/frame rails/rear sub-brace, AGX, sway bar, stb, Fidanza/ACT combo, EBC Yellows
92 COMMA SM - new paint coming soon...
Wow!! Hot. Frozen. Where's Harold Taft when I need him??
Thanks for this -- I'll give that a shot.
For those of you who recommended Stevan Boyd, I chatted with him this morning. Nice chap. Hope to get the Boomiata to him (preferrably under its own power!) before the weekend.
No change during braking. Only change with speed is -- forgive me -- frequency of the wub (as in, the faster the wheels turn, the more frequent the wub).
However, it does increase in intensity and loudness when a BIT of load is placed on the right wheels (as in when swerving to the right to avoid dismembering a raccoon sleeping in the left lane and then swerving back into the left lane). Goes from an unfriendly little wub-wub to a downright hostile whap-whap. I really must get this car to the shop -- I'm running out of sound descriptors...
Oh yeah, that's most certianly a wheel bearing.
90 MX5 281k miles! - euro spec, Porsche Riviera Blue w/black hardtop, 97 motor swap, vintage Borbet rims, GC, FM shock hats/frame rails/rear sub-brace, AGX, sway bar, stb, Fidanza/ACT combo, EBC Yellows
92 COMMA SM - new paint coming soon...
If it's not a wheel bearing, the noise sounds very similar to the front bearing of differential going out. I replaced a wheel bearing and still had my "noise" until I changed out the diff. on a whim and then discovered it was the front bearing.
Smile
93' LE #1136 - FM II
250k miles
If its a wheel bearing you can easily tell by hanging your head out the drivers side or a friends head out the passenger side while driving. The sound will be fairly audible. Also if your driving next to a wall and the sound is louder on either side then its the wheel bearing on that side. If it is a diff bearing then the sound wont sound liek its coming from either side....since the diff is the middle. But from what you described I would say its a wheel bearing.
An easy test we do at the shop is jack up the car and push pull on the wheel, as described in this Wiki articel -
"To check a wheel bearing, grasp the tire at the 12 and 6 o’clock positions and attempt to rock the tire. As a rule, there should be zero play on most FWD cars, but up to .010 inch of play in the front bearings may be acceptable on RWD applications that have adjustable bearings. Also rotate the tire by hand. Any roughness or noise from the bearings would also tell you the bearings are worn or damaged and need to be replaced. If one wheel bearing has failed, pay close attention to all of the other hubs on the vehicle, especially if the vehicle has a lot of miles on it. Chances are some of the other bearings may also be nearing the end of their journey."
Basically, just grab it top to bottom and wiggle it, then side to side and wiggle it. If it moves alot, squeaks, etc. then it needs replacing.
No idea if someone alreayd posted this. If not, then try it out.
'95 NA8 5SPD
Thanks for this. I did try that on Sunday along with free-spinning the wheels. No play. No noise. The weather was so incredible today that I drove home from Dallas with the top down and didn't even try to listen. Just cranked up the Buffett and drove. It was nice to enjoy the car again --even if just for 45 minutes-- and not listen for the noise. I'll surely be glad to get this rear end problem behind me...
Does the friend need to be in the car?
(No one has been able to hear anything from the exterior -- but then, my friends and I are all getting up in years, too!)
This is what I am sooooo afraid of...$$$$
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