To summarize-
- If you care about SCCA/ER autocross classing, you would be limited to shocks and a front sway bar to stay in stock class, but it does not sound like this applies to you.
- If you are going to go with a coilover suspension, go all the way and get the Tein Flex. It is worth the extra money.
- If you goal is to be faster around the autocross course, there is more to be gained from seat time and driving lessons than expensive upgrades. *
- Jrj512, Miatamoto, and POS Racing all have their panties in a bunch.
* I know... I have a car with thousands in aftermarket parts, and I am still much slower then the pantie boys. My expensive parts are great on the street, but mean nothing on the autocross course because the driver still sucks. I suck a little less every time out, but it takes a lot of seat time. I'm hoping to hit the driving schools next spring and working on getting more seat time.
Ya well see this car is 75% street and 25% autocross IMHO. I have fun at autocross, believe me, but I have nearly as much fun on twisty lake roads. The good thing about AutoX is it's the same fun, but legal, and competitive, albeit not as much driving as a twisty road.
So you've got your basics, which are still damned good compared to stock non bilsteins. Then you can double that price to get 16 way adjustability, ability to lower it to levels I wouldn't dare on the street, and sweet ass pillowballs.
But are the sweet ass pillowballs and 16 ways of adjustability worth the $700 for a mostly street car? Or will I be just as happy spending $950 on the basics and a RB front sway and calling it a day (except for some braces here and there and endlinks later) for a 3/4 street, 1/4 AutoX kind of priorities?
Previously owned: 2004 Classic Red - 135,000 miles
H&R Street Performance Coilovers | Racing Beat Hollow Front Sway | Hawk HP+ Pads | BF Goodrich GForce Sports | DIY Short CAI | Mazdaspeed Muffler | Pioneer DEH-5800MP | Alpine F353 V12 Amp | JL Audio C5-650 Components | Pioneer Premier 10" Shallow Mount | Skunk2 Knob | 5000k HIDs | Many bowls of Rice
If I were you, I would buy the Flyin Miata sway bar set on sale at the moment for $160, and then save up for a set of the Tein Flex and an alignment by AJ as a spring project. But that's just me. I'm sure there are a dozen different opinions out there.
IMHO, For less than $150.00 (shipped) I'd start with a front swaybar, you'll be amazed how much of a difference ya get. I think a rear bar isn't going to help much for the 25% of AX duty ya plan, what do you think Miatamoto??
Then I'd also save up for the Tein Flex setup.
http://www.flyinmiata.com/index.php?...0%20%201990-93
VW Bug in running shoes
M Porcupine sedan
M Porcupine coupe
Crusty old e46 beater
Battery Powered appliance car
Well if I am correct, the front swaybar can rip the mounts? That is why I quoted ~$250 for the RB hollow front sway + reinforcement kit.
Anyone ever had any trouble with the FM front sway ripping the mounts?
Previously owned: 2004 Classic Red - 135,000 miles
H&R Street Performance Coilovers | Racing Beat Hollow Front Sway | Hawk HP+ Pads | BF Goodrich GForce Sports | DIY Short CAI | Mazdaspeed Muffler | Pioneer DEH-5800MP | Alpine F353 V12 Amp | JL Audio C5-650 Components | Pioneer Premier 10" Shallow Mount | Skunk2 Knob | 5000k HIDs | Many bowls of Rice
So...
You guys have seen and/or run 1" or bigger front bars, with no "bracing", and it's been just fine at auto x?
Previously owned: 2004 Classic Red - 135,000 miles
H&R Street Performance Coilovers | Racing Beat Hollow Front Sway | Hawk HP+ Pads | BF Goodrich GForce Sports | DIY Short CAI | Mazdaspeed Muffler | Pioneer DEH-5800MP | Alpine F353 V12 Amp | JL Audio C5-650 Components | Pioneer Premier 10" Shallow Mount | Skunk2 Knob | 5000k HIDs | Many bowls of Rice
I have the Flyin Miata front and rear bars, and I like having the ability to try different setups. I have tried the FM front bar (full stiff) with no rear bar, the stock rear bar, and the FM rear bar at soft and hard. I have settled in with the FM bar at the soft setting. For the additional $30 or $40, it is worth getting the rear bar for the flexibility to try different settings. If you wait and decide to get it later, you loose the sale price, the combo price savings, and the shipping price savings.
VW Bug in running shoes
M Porcupine sedan
M Porcupine coupe
Crusty old e46 beater
Battery Powered appliance car
Yea.....
Altiain broke one a few years back but he is about the only person I can think of who ever busted the mount, and wasn't a major deal to fix it IIRC.
In SCCA Stock class you cannot add the bracing, so every CS Legal Miata you see doesn't have the added bracing.
But if you want to spend the $$$ for the peace of mind go buy the bracing.
Look Ma 3 Wheels!
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Weak.
edit: Do you think Tein basics, with an alignment, with no rear bar and a stock front will be worth anything or will it still oversteer too much until I get a front bar?
Last edited by bmcreider; 11-05-2007 at 10:29 AM.
Previously owned: 2004 Classic Red - 135,000 miles
H&R Street Performance Coilovers | Racing Beat Hollow Front Sway | Hawk HP+ Pads | BF Goodrich GForce Sports | DIY Short CAI | Mazdaspeed Muffler | Pioneer DEH-5800MP | Alpine F353 V12 Amp | JL Audio C5-650 Components | Pioneer Premier 10" Shallow Mount | Skunk2 Knob | 5000k HIDs | Many bowls of Rice
I'd start with the front bar (or Titus's cool find), but that's just me.![]()
The only reason to get the flex over the SS is to go really low, so if you're not worried about that, you'd be fine with the SS IMO.
I run a 1.125" dia RB front bar with no bracing.
LOL, on the commando comment.
Thomas![]()
V-to-the-Dub