Reply With QuoteI had a problem with spark and it turned out to be the Cam Angle Sensor.
No spark
I may have messed up over the weekend. I was changing the oil on my 94 (155k miles) and decided I would clean the engine as well. I used two cans of degreaser and I hit the underside pretty well to get the road grime off. I thought I avoided the coil ( and no I didn't cover it) as well as the top of the cylinder head.
Started her up, ran fine, went to wash it, then Home Depot with it running fine. Came home and SeaFoamed her and ran her for 15/20 minutes until the exhaust ran clear. Then I parked it in the garage and mowed. Several hours later I came out to move it so my wife could pull in the garage and she wouldn't start. Turns over fine just no spark. I replaced the coil already, all the wires and connectors seem fine. No apparent loose wires or anything. Just in case I pulled all the plugs and set up a fan to dry out any moisture. Am I missing something? Is their a process with a volt/ohm meter to track down where the issue is? Barring that a suggestion for a good Mazda mechanic in Collin county?
I had a problem with spark and it turned out to be the Cam Angle Sensor.
1994 R-package - gone, but not forgotten.
1966 Toyota Land Cruiser FJ40. Restification in progress. or should I say De-RUSTification in progress?
1984 Honda VF1100S. V4 Fury!
Which is a 20 minute fix - including the time needed to reset the timing.
Daily Driver: 2013 Club edition in Pearl White Mica
Lightness? What's that? I drive a PRHT!
And what exactly was wrong with the Cam Angle Sensor? I guess I'm not aware of it, I don't really have easy access to any reference materials here
This should give you a bit more information - http://www.miata.net/garage/ignition.htmlOriginally Posted by DrZaius
And some music for ya!
- Wet connector?
- Loose connector?
- Pull the engine codes?
- How did you verify no spark? Could it be fuel?
- Just for grins, have the wife crank the motor as you look under the oil cap to verify the cams are spinning.
Check the CAS with a multimeter. If that works, then My bet is on the igniter. In that case, convert to COP. Its easy, $50, and supposedly makes the car run much better.
TXMC: Drinkin, shootin, racin!
The symptoms were intermittent stumbling under various driving conditions. Early in the long and drawn out death of my CAS, this was isolated to warm-up periods. After the problem became more consistent, it would rear its ugly head whenever, including 75mph cruising. Sometimes, it would just stumble, and others it would completely shut down. After I tested everything else in the ignition and fuel systems, tapping on the CAS with a tool (SFH...Like BFH, but smaller) got it to return to functionality (for a day). At this point, I scored a used CAS and the problem was gone.
Note, the CAS from a 1.6 car will work on a 1.8, but not the other way around.
If you need to test your fuel system, I do have an injector noid light.
1994 R-package - gone, but not forgotten.
1966 Toyota Land Cruiser FJ40. Restification in progress. or should I say De-RUSTification in progress?
1984 Honda VF1100S. V4 Fury!
Stumbling across a variety of speeds? Stumbling as in a split second drop of RPM's? Even to the point of stalling? I had that happen several times last week but I pushed that problem off once this happened Saturday night. Where did you score the used CAS and is there a procedure to test it?
I pulled all the connectors and had a fan blowing over them all night long, I'm positive all the connections are tight now. No spark was verified by pulling a plug and having the wife turn the car over. I'll verify the cams spinning once I get home and I haven't bothered to pull the codes yet. I know, should have been the first thing I did.
do plugs then wires. I needed plugs.
TXMC: Drinkin, shootin, racin!
Check your ENG engine fuse, a 15 amp blue one as this goes to the ignition side of your system.
Also have you pulled your plugs to see if they are all wet?
Gary
Danger!!! This Dog Bites.
www.trackdogracing.com
Plugs were pulled, cleaned, and regapped. I haven't thought to check the fuse though. I'll do that as soon as I get home. Thanks for the suggestion.
Is there a proper procedure to check the CAS or a guideline as to what the tolerances should be?
Thanks for the suggestion.
get someone to crank the motor while you see if any signal is emitted with the multimeter, after you check a wire diagram, after you check that fuse or course. Have fun working behind the head. You can get a wire diagram and test at the ecm too.
TXMC: Drinkin, shootin, racin!
DrZaius did you figure out what the problem was??
No, part of that is due to timing and the fact that I have another car to drive, although the Miata is my daily driver. The wife hasn't been feeling well and there are three kids at home, I haven't been able to get out in the garage the past few days. Plugs are good, all connections are dry and mating well, and no obvious loose or cut wires. I do need to check the ground under the hood (assuming there is one) got a wiring diagram last night and I'll track that down. Also plan on testing the CAS tonight.
Provided no tornadoes of course.
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