So you are selling the car because the fan is bad? (you accidentally posted in the classifieds)
Sitting in the driveway listening to a song on radio this evening I see the temp needle start to creep up. This is the 2nd time it's done this since I've been driving it again. It spent 5 months in the driveway this fall while I drove the other car (strange circumstances, car was running fine).
Popped the hood and the fan was blowing but it seemed a little weak. Hit the AC button and when it engaged the temp actually went down. Assuming it was because of the extra fan running I got out and checked, the AC fan was blowing at least 200-300% stronger than the drivers side fan.
I am assuming that both fans should be moving the same amount of air and this is not normal?? Are the bearings going out in that fan? I have a spare set of fans in the garage if that's the case but wanted to make sure before I started tearing things apart.
The coolant was a little low when I started driving it again but I topped it off a month ago. It's been over a year since I flushed the coolant and probably needs it, should I run some radiator flush through it while im at it? That being the case it still shouldn't be overheating sitting 5 minutes on a rainy afternoon in March with the AC off. The temps afe fine on the road so it's drivable now, hopefully I can fix it while it's still cool...there's no way I would make it through summer like this.
'94 C-Package Black & Tan | MS3x | exhintake | USDM Tein Monoflex 10/8k | My 8 year roadster evolution
So you are selling the car because the fan is bad? (you accidentally posted in the classifieds)
John O.
94R
oops...how did this end up in the classifieds...
Can somebody move it to Tech?
...Juano beat me to it...
'94 C-Package Black & Tan | MS3x | exhintake | USDM Tein Monoflex 10/8k | My 8 year roadster evolution
Replace the bad fan.
Daily Driver: 2013 Club edition in Pearl White Mica
Lightness? What's that? I drive a PRHT!
Replace the fan and run them in parallel. I'm not a fan of any of the coolant flushes. I would just say drain it and run a more TX friendly blend (only distilled water).
Chris
91 Miata (#3), Rattle Can Grey(previous owner), Greddy Turbo @7 PSI and Manifold (Only items remaining from the kit), TDR I/C, Godspeed Radiator, RM DP, 2.5 Enthuza Bipes, BEGI AFPR, ACT, Lightened Stock Flywheel, Yellow Konis, FCM on Stock Springs, HDM2S, MOMO Wheel, Ratsback Front CF Lip, Black Rota's on EcstaXS, Corrado Rotors & XP8's on Front w/ 1.8 rears.
http://austinmiata.com/
Wishlist: Megasquirt to run 12-13 PSI, White non-spray paint job, 8" 6UL's, RX7 LSD, Evans Waterless Coolant
Replace the bad fan and you should be fine. If they're coming on when they should (one with temp and one with the A/C), then you won't have a problem. Mine run like this and I've never had a problem overheating - even in the most brutal Texas conditions... knock on wood.
I would go with an OEM fan instead of an aftermarket VatoZone replacement. My prior experience with the latter leads me to believe that those suck and will burn out quicker. Just my $0.02.
'94 Black & Black & Tan
'99 head swap, JR header, TDR intake & header blanket, MegaSquirt, RB hollow bar, Tein Flex, 15x8 6ULs, HD M2 Sport, FM cat, Borla cat-back, black '95M interior, MOMO Zebrano, IL Motorsport console...
Dyno Days
8/16/08 (bone stock): 103.1 hp/99.0 lb-ft - Dynojet
8/23/08 (Borla cat-back): 108.2 hp/104.1 lb-ft - Dynojet
8/13/11 (more stuff...): 126 hp/116 lb-ft - Mustang dyno
Roger Moore: the Danny White of James Bonds
I have spare OEM set in the garage from my last radiator blowout fiasco... Never tested them though. I'll swap the bad one and if it's not strong enough i'll go OEM. I don't want to risk anything given my luck with cooling systems...
'94 C-Package Black & Tan | MS3x | exhintake | USDM Tein Monoflex 10/8k | My 8 year roadster evolution
The fan's aren't the same and If memory serves me right, the A/C fan is considerably stronger.
'08 Copper Red GT PRHT, '06 Accord EXL, '05 Dodge Magnum R/T, '01 V8 Dakota for pulling 2135 Chaparral.
Huh...that sucks.
Any idea what else would be my problem? The radiator is only a little over year old and I use distilled water so it couldn't be gunked up this soon. I don't have a front license plate blocking the airway, and it was 50 degrees outside.
Water pump going out maybe? The PO said the timing belt was changed around 80,000 miles and im over 150,000 now, don't know if the water pump was changed with the belt either so it could be very old.
Any way to check?
I know that the summer that I replaced the radiator and flushed coolant and everything, it overheated once while running in a parkinglot for about 15 minutes with the AC on, not too bad but enough to blow a half gallon+ of coolant into the overflow bottle. I just assumed black car, triple digit heat index, no air flow was the culprit, but this seems to be an advanced case of that same event 1.5 years later in less than half the time and at less than half the outside temperature. Something's going out...I just hope it's not expensive.
I could wire both fans up in series and that would cure my problem temporarily, but when the summer arrives I would be kicking myself for it if the fan is indeed still good.
'94 C-Package Black & Tan | MS3x | exhintake | USDM Tein Monoflex 10/8k | My 8 year roadster evolution
Ignore Duane for now replace the fan first then report back. It is not uncommon for the fans to get weak. Plus ya got the parts in the garage!
I agree with Stupid. Replace the fan and report back.
Ouch, Well kiss myI missed the post where he said he had fans sitting around. Well hell, if you have a spare, by all means give it a shot.
I'll bet it's a t-stat![]()
'08 Copper Red GT PRHT, '06 Accord EXL, '05 Dodge Magnum R/T, '01 V8 Dakota for pulling 2135 Chaparral.
Yea, I was planning on at least testing the other fan first. I can just plug it in without taking the other one out right (with necessary safety precautions of course) to see if it's stronger.
The thermostat isn't that old either, I changed it about 2.5 years ago, how long do they last(O'Riley t-stat). Can they get progressively worse over time? I thought they just stuck open or closed.
When I topped off the coolant last month, the radiator gurgled out coolant intil the engine warmed up, then the level dropped and I was able to pour a half gallon or so in there. I assumed this mean the t-stat was working properly. I am still learning this stuff so honestly I dont know.
Yea, I think i'm going to play with that fan this weekend. Since the AC fan is stronger would it be possible (or a good idea even) to put the other AC fan in there in place of the normal radiator fan? I am sure the plugs are different but I think I could splice it in somehow. Maybe that's a bad idea, just thinking out loud.
'94 C-Package Black & Tan | MS3x | exhintake | USDM Tein Monoflex 10/8k | My 8 year roadster evolution
Miata's eat t-stats. Check to make sure it's not stuck closed.
91 Miata (#3), Rattle Can Grey(previous owner), Greddy Turbo @7 PSI and Manifold (Only items remaining from the kit), TDR I/C, Godspeed Radiator, RM DP, 2.5 Enthuza Bipes, BEGI AFPR, ACT, Lightened Stock Flywheel, Yellow Konis, FCM on Stock Springs, HDM2S, MOMO Wheel, Ratsback Front CF Lip, Black Rota's on EcstaXS, Corrado Rotors & XP8's on Front w/ 1.8 rears.
http://austinmiata.com/
Wishlist: Megasquirt to run 12-13 PSI, White non-spray paint job, 8" 6UL's, RX7 LSD, Evans Waterless Coolant
Thermostats fail open these days. It doesn't seem likely that it would overheat only at idle if that were the problem. You seem to be having a lot of trouble with cooling and I wonder if we have identified the cause. I'm all for replacing the fan since you've got one but a compression and timing check may identify an underlying issue.
Stripe Das Sape
We are leading the world to democracy by example.
Titus helped me with the timing awhile back and if I remember correctly we set it to 10, or whatever stock specs are.
If I had a compression issue wouldn't I be able to feel it on acceleration? The engine feels very strong throuought the power band. The only thing is a rough idle has showed up in the last month or so, I figured it's been awhile since ive seafoamed it, might be a carbon buildup.
I'm definitely going to replace all the cheapest stuff first starting with the fan this weekend, but out of curiosity what would I be in for with a compression check, how difficult is that to perform, or is that something I need to take to a shop for??
'94 C-Package Black & Tan | MS3x | exhintake | USDM Tein Monoflex 10/8k | My 8 year roadster evolution
On white I was having "over heating issues" but really it was'nt. I installed a mechinal gage and all was ok.
Hmm what is decent? Are we talking about your decent or my decent? I'm just curious because I don't want to offend anyone else's decent...
Ok, I swapped the fan out and just finished flushing the coolant with 60/40. Fan blows at least 200% stronger, which solves part of my problem. I sat it idling for awhile and it didn't overheat, we'll see how she does after highway driving tomorrow. I might have another problem, the fan blows stronger than the AC fan, I might replace that one when I have some time.
2 questions:
First, I ran it to temp while topping off coolant. I never saw the point where the tstat opens and all the coolant gushes in then engine and you add more coolant. Indication of a stuck tstat? (doesn't seem like the car's acting like a stuck tstat though) I've only seen this happen once or twice, so don't know if it's normal or not. Maybe the engine had water in it, and just started circulating...maybe different circumstances last time I saw this.
Second...as I was letting it warm up a small amount of crud came out with the bubbles. This wouldn't be an indication of....oil in the water would it? It's just the normal crud in the old car cooling system right?
*crosses fingers*
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Pic is the water sitting in the funnel, which is sitting in the radiator opening while the car was running.
Thanks for all the help guys.
'94 C-Package Black & Tan | MS3x | exhintake | USDM Tein Monoflex 10/8k | My 8 year roadster evolution