bump??
OK, I'm tweaking the camber a bit since the NTB guy in Cedar Hill decided he "wasn't allowed" to do custom alignments (???) after making me wait an hour. The Miata tables I've attached show the bolts are to be turned either clockwise or counter clockwise, and give a general rotation guide on the diagram. If I am turning the camber bolt head (not the lock nut), then CW and CCW will reverse relative to each other as I look at the head of the F & R bolts, since they face away from each other. That would mean that the front wheel adjustments are actually turning the markers in the SAME direction, not opposite as on the rear. Am I reading this correctly?
I'm trying to give some negative camber, since I had none. The rear worked-out fine, and I can visually see the increased negative camber, but I didn't want to finish the front without clarifying this point.
Polished Turd Racing
Mick wrote: "I think Jerrett is the best autocrosser I have ever seen naked."
bump??
Polished Turd Racing
Mick wrote: "I think Jerrett is the best autocrosser I have ever seen naked."
Sorry no clue try Miata.net lots more folks lurking about over there at this hour that may be able to answer your question...
Try a post in the Suspension, Handling & Brakes section.
I have a lot of string, several levels and protractors, some greased tiles to use as swivel plates and a lot of ideas on how I think it should be done after reading all about string alignments.
I would be perfectly happy to try out my ideas on anyone else's car.![]()
Stripe Das Sape
We are leading the world to democracy by example.
Or you could drive out to Brandon at the grapevine mills NTB if you have an alignment warranty, he does any spec you want with you in the car.
John O.
94R
Front's are easy, and you can see what happens if you have the wheel off. Rear cam is 99% caster, so you probably don't want to mess with it. The front is basically all camber. I won't tell you which is CW or CCW because the bolts can go in from the front or the back. To add camber, Turn it so the cam lobe is going inward, thus pushing the a-arm outward.
You say the rears were easy? You might think so, but you could have really screwed up the toe. If you turned both cams exactly the same amount, you should be close, but the difference betwee 1/16" toe in to toe out will make a huge difference. To be sure, tow plates work great, if you have access to some(I do!). If not and your tires have parallel groves, you can use a tape measure. Just make sure you are always measuring from the same height from the ground to get a good reading.
Hope this helps...................
92 Sunny 214k, 95 Dimples, 93 James Bondo, 92 SM (Speedie Jr)
Shelley, Apex, Tigger, Max, Baby(cats), Fluffy, Spot, and Peanut (mini horses), Cinnamon & Bitsy(dawgs)
MSR #1001, SCCA #208822Let's go racin'
A cheap digital level from the hardware store works good for measuring the camber just cut a straight parallel strip of metal to fit on the outside of the rim and put the level on that. You will need a flat location to get a good measurment.
After you adjust the camber you will need to reset the tow. It will be way off.
That is correct. You cenrtainly do NOT want positive camber!
92 Sunny 214k, 95 Dimples, 93 James Bondo, 92 SM (Speedie Jr)
Shelley, Apex, Tigger, Max, Baby(cats), Fluffy, Spot, and Peanut (mini horses), Cinnamon & Bitsy(dawgs)
MSR #1001, SCCA #208822Let's go racin'