I already called thermostat, but it looks like they tried that. Drat.
I'd keep an eye on it now and if "12:30" becomes the new norm, then so be it - consider it fixed.![]()
Ok guys... wanting some imput on an ongoing issue with my sisters car. I kinda told rick about this at the last keller's meet. It's a 2003 Hyundai Accent.
From her mouth-- For the last year or so the car has been overheating. Wouldn't do it in winter when the heater was turned on (heat vented into car...). If the heater was turned to cold without the ac engaged, the car would start to overheat. Would overheat in the summer any time she got on the freeway with the AC on. Most of the time would not overheat in stop and go traffic in the city with the AC on. The AC would also cut out. There were no code lights. As time goes on, the problem occurs with higher frequency. The dealership has been 'working' on the problem for the last year
Before the problem started, the water pump was replaced last year because it was leaking. After the problem started they replaced the thermostat.
The dealership contacted hyundai tech line, they said radiator, water pump issue.
This go round they put in a new radiator because supposedly the old one was clogged. This did nothing. (no shit.)They now say there was another issue, that there were dirty connections on go1 and go4, causing electrical issue on those grounds, and now that those connections have been cleaned the problem is fixed.
Before when overheating, the needle would rise 3/4+ of the way on the gauge. There are 2 dots on the gauge were it normally sits at operating range.
Saturday, on the way home from the dealership on the highway, after being 'fixed'...again.... the temp gauge rose to possibly 1 hour past the 'normal' point. the gauge normally sits at 11:30 for opperating temp, instead it was at 12:30. but it did not continue to climb.
She has pics of the gauge, but i i dont have a cable to connect her camera to my computer... i can get the pic of the gauge if it would help.
Any and all imput is highly appreciated.
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I already called thermostat, but it looks like they tried that. Drat.
I'd keep an eye on it now and if "12:30" becomes the new norm, then so be it - consider it fixed.![]()
'94 Black & Black & Tan
'99 head swap, JR header, TDR intake & header blanket, MegaSquirt, RB hollow bar, Tein Flex, 15x8 6ULs, HD M2 Sport, FM cat, Borla cat-back, black '95M interior, MOMO Zebrano, IL Motorsport console...
Dyno Days
8/16/08 (bone stock): 103.1 hp/99.0 lb-ft - Dynojet
8/23/08 (Borla cat-back): 108.2 hp/104.1 lb-ft - Dynojet
8/13/11 (more stuff...): 126 hp/116 lb-ft - Mustang dyno
Roger Moore: the Danny White of James Bonds
On my previous car, I had overheating issues when there were leaks in hoses or the radiator, (some that couldn't be seen unless the car was hot and running while looking,) when the fan wasn't working right due to a bad relay/temp switch/fan motor, and when the radiator was too small and dirty. If I remember correctly, it is also not unusual for cars with small leaks in their head gaskets or cracks in the head to overheat, or cars with clogged injectors due to a lean condition that the computer can't correct. (That would probably trigger a CEL due to the emissions also being messed up, though.) A friend with an NA had overheating issues when she mounted her front plate in the mouth opening, thus blocking the radiator.
I wonder about the quality of the water pump. I forget where I read it, but some pumps have impellers that aren't as efficient as others for the same car.
Hope this helps.
Mike Walsted - Not an expert, just a data point.
1999 Miata
2003 MIata
1999 Miata
2001 Kia Rio
Is the car loosing any coolant? If not, I'd guess there is not a leak.
Since turning the heater on made the car run cooler, my guess is the radiator/pump is not dumping enough heat to keep the car cool. I've bought and installed bad 'new' parts before.
OTOH, if the needle stays at 12:30 as somone suggested, it is the new normal.
Belts? Is it a serpentine belt and if so, has the tensioner been checked out?
well, needle went sky high earlier. peggged on her way to work.
Dealership has done ALL maintenance. All parts were installed by dealer, so i would assume they are all Hyundai parts. She won't let me work on her car. There are no coolant leaks. There have been some kind of oily leakage in the last 2 months..... Dealership insists there is no leak too..... I didn't connect the two.
Cam-- I hadn't considered the serpentine belt and tensioner.
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With all of the parts that've already been replaced, what's really left?
From the suggestions and thoughts already listed, looks like belt tension and faulty head gasket, which is indeed a potential source for overheating, are the next items to check out.
Any more info on that oily leaking issue?
Since I didn't see it mentioned, what's the status on the fans? Do they both work (assuming there are two)? Are they turning in the correct direction? Is there a coolant temp sensor or related bit that's been replaced along with all of the other connectors mentioned?
p.s.: I do not miss my old Hyundai.
'90 "LE" available for purchase soon
2008.5 CWP MS3: JBR 70d trilogy engine mounts, short throw shifter & shift plate bushings; AST 4100 w/ 400lb springs f/r; JRZ camber plates
'94 Black & Black & Tan
'99 head swap, JR header, TDR intake & header blanket, MegaSquirt, RB hollow bar, Tein Flex, 15x8 6ULs, HD M2 Sport, FM cat, Borla cat-back, black '95M interior, MOMO Zebrano, IL Motorsport console...
Dyno Days
8/16/08 (bone stock): 103.1 hp/99.0 lb-ft - Dynojet
8/23/08 (Borla cat-back): 108.2 hp/104.1 lb-ft - Dynojet
8/13/11 (more stuff...): 126 hp/116 lb-ft - Mustang dyno
Roger Moore: the Danny White of James Bonds
I'm not sure what its leaking because all i see is day's old residue when i go to the rent's. I told her to put down some cardboard to catch the drippage so i can see what it is, and possibly where it is coming from. There is one fan and i will check in on that. as for the sensor, she said the tech drove around with her in the car using a sensor on a probe (i'm not sure what she means) and that the readings on that were consistent with what her car was reading.... and it overheated.
worked fine for the first 5 years, with no issues. I think it's as much tech error as anything. I wouldn't be surprised if it was originaly something as simple as a faulty thermostat, but that it turned into a head gasket issue.
For months "there was no issue" when she took it in, and of course they couldn't get it to reproduce the issue at the dealership.
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Is the car actually overheating or only showing a high reading on the gauge? I didn't read anything about it boiling over or shutting down. I know this seems obvious but it could just be a gauge problem. When the needle pegged was it showing any other signs of being hot? I have a pyrometer if you want to know what the temp is actually doing.
Stripe Das Sape
We are leading the world to democracy by example.
unfortunately, the car is actually overheating.
My *fix* is for her to trade it in while it runs. since its an intermittent problem, i say she should cross her fingers and hope it is missed in a trade in inspection. I helped her buy the car, got it new for $8000 out the door, even got tint thrown in. She's driven it for 5 years, and i would expect somewhere in the 2k range for a dealer trade.
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Yea defenetly time to ditch that turd....![]()