R speed now has tops CHEAP. They claim to be jut as good or better than the Robbins tops. I've now had 3 robins tops and I can say they are just ok. So I'll be getting an R Speed when the time comes. My crappy Robins economy top lasted all of 3-4 years before it fell apart. I have a Robins OEM equal top on my car now that took about 8 years to fall apart, but the price is too much for when is started to fall apart (4 years ago)
David Hedderick
Houston, TX
92 Miata SE; 02 RSX-S; 01 Boxsturd; 05 STI
That seems to be the same problem I'm having. I tried pushing the third bow up to meet the second one, but it's catching on something and doesn't quite make it there. It pinches the top material between the two bows.
So far, my impression is that this is a poorly designed top. I hope a little fiddling with the bows or support straps will remedy this, but I don't trust myself to do the fiddling.
Oh, well I've got two sevens, and two sevens beats a frush.
Are the support straps wrapped around the rear bow and hanging it up?
'94 Black & Black & Tan
'99 head swap, JR header, TDR intake & header blanket, MegaSquirt, RB hollow bar, Tein Flex, 15x8 6ULs, HD M2 Sport, FM cat, Borla cat-back, black '95M interior, MOMO Zebrano, IL Motorsport console...
Dyno Days
8/16/08 (bone stock): 103.1 hp/99.0 lb-ft - Dynojet
8/23/08 (Borla cat-back): 108.2 hp/104.1 lb-ft - Dynojet
8/13/11 (more stuff...): 126 hp/116 lb-ft - Mustang dyno
Roger Moore: the Danny White of James Bonds
They're not wrapped around the third bow, just riveted to it.
Here's a link to my thread on CR.net about it, with pics: http://www.clubroadster.net/vb_forum...ad.php?t=21795
On the bright side, the top fits really well when it's up, and doesn't leak at all.
From what I'm hearing, I'm starting to think it's an issue with the design of the top frame. So now I'm wondering if it's possible to modify my NA frame to operate like a late-NB frame.
Oh, well I've got two sevens, and two sevens beats a frush.
That's really weird. It looks like the top fabric is getting bunched up between the last two bows and not allowing the window to flop down. You don't have any pics of the inside of the top when it's halfway down, do you?
I know my rear bow will catch on the seam that runs over the top of the top and keep the top from going down. It also catches coming back up and needs help to pop back into place under said seam.
'94 Black & Black & Tan
'99 head swap, JR header, TDR intake & header blanket, MegaSquirt, RB hollow bar, Tein Flex, 15x8 6ULs, HD M2 Sport, FM cat, Borla cat-back, black '95M interior, MOMO Zebrano, IL Motorsport console...
Dyno Days
8/16/08 (bone stock): 103.1 hp/99.0 lb-ft - Dynojet
8/23/08 (Borla cat-back): 108.2 hp/104.1 lb-ft - Dynojet
8/13/11 (more stuff...): 126 hp/116 lb-ft - Mustang dyno
Roger Moore: the Danny White of James Bonds
Yeah, that's exactly what's happening. I just can't figure out why. I wonder if the spring assemblies from the NB top can be retrofitted, and if they'd help.
I've got an inside pic on my computer at home. I'll post it later on tonight.
I have to say though, with the rain we're getting I'm thankful that the top is stuck up instead of down.![]()
Oh, well I've got two sevens, and two sevens beats a frush.
I am interested in getting a new tan canvas top to replace my factory 1993 vinyl black top. I'm looking at the Moss website, and part #239-041 for $650. Any advice on this product choice and or a place to get it installed is welcome.
I do want tan, and canvas, and I think I want the defroster, as I enjoy that in my hard top.
Freeman Mazda ruined my plastic window by running the car through a car wash years ago, so has offered to do the labor for $500 instead of $700.![]()
Call Stevan at Miata Solutions he does a lot of tops and he is good people!
http://www.miatasolutions.com/
Oh my gosh that place is in Egypt! Texas Motor Speedway?! Thank you, but I just don't think I can justify driving to the end of the earth!