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Thread: Metropolitan Engine Removal, Sunday, 11/22

  1. #21
    Driver creek's Avatar
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    Looking around on the intermess, it looks like STANPART was the standard part spares division of Triumph. Motors with that marking were replacement engines for the Spitfire and Midget. Is that what you are finding Titus?
    Stripe Das Sape

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  2. #22

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    Quote Originally Posted by creek View Post
    Looking around on the intermess, it looks like STANPART was the standard part spares division of Triumph. Motors with that marking were replacement engines for the Spitfire and Midget. Is that what you are finding Titus?
    Yep... But sadly, the nice cast number on the side of the block turns up nothing. The number that matters for identifying the specs one the engine was stamped behind the distributor. That number is so worn down, I can only make out the first letter of F. That does confirm that it is from a Spitfire or Midget, but doesn't get me any closer:

    FC (HE=9.0:1, LE= 7.0:1), 1147cc, Spitfire MkI
    FC50001, 1147cc, Spitfire MkII
    FD (HE=9.0:1, LE=7.5:1), 1296cc, Spitfire MkIII USA
    FE (8.5:1 for emission controlled), 1296cc, Spitfire MkIII
    FH (9.0:1), 1296cc, Spitfire MkIV,
    FK (8.0:1), 1296cc, Spitfire MkIV USA
    FM (9:1-world, 7.5:1-US, 9:1-US in 1976), 1492cc, Spitfire 1500 (1973-80)
    FL, 1492cc, Spitfire MKIV/1500 Sweden
    FP (9:1-world, 7.5:1-US, 9:1-US in 1976), 1492cc, 1500 MG Midget (1975-79)

  3. #23

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    Spitfire motor AND transmission possibly? ...
    I drive to fast to worry about my cholesterol.

  4. #24

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    Might want to research the methods they use to raise serial numbers on handguns that have been filed down. It may allow you to read the number.

  5. #25
    Orange cones fear me. cone-cerned's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by HudsonHawk View Post
    Might want to research the methods they use to raise serial numbers on handguns that have been filed down. It may allow you to read the number.
    I was thinking the same thing.
    On the track, I am fearless.
    If you were as slow as me, you wouldn't be afraid either.

    1994 M Edition
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  6. #26

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    Just did a quick google search. As long as it is stamped into the metal then you can use a metal etching solution to bring out the number. If it is cast into the piece then that method will not work.

  7. #27
    Suspension Modder Sandor's Avatar
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    How did the project go? Did the transplant heart fit into the patient?
    2006 Limited Edition, Ohlin's DFV, Cosworth, Full RS exhaust w/ Q muffler, RP-F1 w/ Direzza Z1 Star Spec 255/40ZR17, Goodwin double hoop roll bar w/ removable rear brace, Mazdaspeed Front bumper cover, AEM AFR, AEM water/methanol injection, (Cosworth built 2.0L w/ all forged internals and head and cams on its way). Permagrin fully intact.

  8. #28
    Suspension Modder Sandor's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by HudsonHawk View Post
    Might want to research the methods they use to raise serial numbers on handguns that have been filed down. It may allow you to read the number.
    I think that it is a different process since on a hand gun the numbers are ingraved and on the car they are raised. Not sure how to re-raise a number once it is worn off. There might be a way, but, I have never heard of it.
    2006 Limited Edition, Ohlin's DFV, Cosworth, Full RS exhaust w/ Q muffler, RP-F1 w/ Direzza Z1 Star Spec 255/40ZR17, Goodwin double hoop roll bar w/ removable rear brace, Mazdaspeed Front bumper cover, AEM AFR, AEM water/methanol injection, (Cosworth built 2.0L w/ all forged internals and head and cams on its way). Permagrin fully intact.

  9. #29

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    Quote Originally Posted by Sandor View Post
    How did the project go? Did the transplant heart fit into the patient?
    Engine is pulled. Now working on removing stubborn steering components to make more room for the longer Miata engine. They are caked in 50 years of rust and don't want to come out too easy.

  10. #30
    Suspension Modder Sandor's Avatar
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    That is nothing that a BFH and some liquid wrench can not fix. I personally like the BFH angle the best. I have been known to use the liquid wrench more often in my old aga LOL. That 16 LBS sledge is getting to feel more and more like 60 LBS., every year.
    2006 Limited Edition, Ohlin's DFV, Cosworth, Full RS exhaust w/ Q muffler, RP-F1 w/ Direzza Z1 Star Spec 255/40ZR17, Goodwin double hoop roll bar w/ removable rear brace, Mazdaspeed Front bumper cover, AEM AFR, AEM water/methanol injection, (Cosworth built 2.0L w/ all forged internals and head and cams on its way). Permagrin fully intact.

  11. #31

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    if theres something stuck and you have a very big aircompressor, i can bring my gun. its an air hog but with 1000ftlbs, its pretty strong.

  12. #32

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    Quote Originally Posted by BAM! View Post
    if theres something stuck and you have a very big aircompressor, i can bring my gun. its an air hog but with 1000ftlbs, its pretty strong.


    You have that new snap on 1/2 like me? I just found out they have green and orange available! I bought the new 1/2 and 3/8 2 months ago and they have been amazing, I use the 3/8 for almost everything, I've even taken flywheel and crank pully bolts off!
    Front wheel drive is great for...
    Rear wheel drive is great for everything else.

  13. #33

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    Quote Originally Posted by BAM! View Post
    if theres something stuck and you have a very big aircompressor, i can bring my gun. its an air hog but with 1000ftlbs, its pretty strong.
    Actually, what is stuck right now is not a nut. It is a tie rod... nut is off, but it won't slide out. I have hit it with an air hammer and deadblow countless times, but it won't budge. Strange thing is that it isn't seized... it will rotate, just wont slide off.
    Quote Originally Posted by TheStig View Post
    You have that new snap on 1/2 like me? I just found out they have green and orange available! I bought the new 1/2 and 3/8 2 months ago and they have been amazing, I use the 3/8 for almost everything, I've even taken flywheel and crank pully bolts off!
    I have an old Snap On IM6500HP that has yet to fail me.
    Last edited by Titus; 12-08-2009 at 10:14 PM.

  14. #34

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    Get a bigger hammer!!!

    If you are trying to break it loose from the wheel axle assembly, I have one of the wedges for breaking it loose. They are hard to get off and when they do finally come loose it sounds like you broke the asasembly. I also have a pitman arm puller if you need to borrow it.
    Last edited by Radio-Active; 12-08-2009 at 10:21 PM. Reason: Ripped off a smilie from a website and it is one that keeps switching smilie messages.
    05 MX-5 Mazdaspeed #1024 Titanium Gray Mica

  15. #35

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    Quote Originally Posted by Titus View Post
    Actually, what is stuck right now is not a bolt. It is a tie rod... bolt is off, but it won't slide out. I have hit it with an air hammer and deadblow countless times, but it won't budge. Strange thing is that it isn't seized... it will rotate, just wont slide off.

    I have an old Snap On IM6500HP that has yet to fail me.

    Beautiful iron duke! I've got the same one with a gold glitter cover lol.
    Front wheel drive is great for...
    Rear wheel drive is great for everything else.

  16. #36
    Suspension Modder Sandor's Avatar
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    All you should have to do is hit it with a hammer on the leading edge of the female potion. and that should sqeeze the eye and push out the rod. That is how they are designed to work on the older cars that I am used to working on.
    2006 Limited Edition, Ohlin's DFV, Cosworth, Full RS exhaust w/ Q muffler, RP-F1 w/ Direzza Z1 Star Spec 255/40ZR17, Goodwin double hoop roll bar w/ removable rear brace, Mazdaspeed Front bumper cover, AEM AFR, AEM water/methanol injection, (Cosworth built 2.0L w/ all forged internals and head and cams on its way). Permagrin fully intact.

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