Yes, you need to remove the hub and put it on a press. It's a simple process, other than that.
I have a wheel bearing going bad on the drivers side rear wheel and I need to get it replaced. I have found that NAPA sells the bearing itself, how hard is it to replace them though? I was going to take it to Stevan but he's booked solid for awhile. Anyone down to help me? I have heard that you need a press?
1990 NA - FOR SALE!
http://img714.imageshack.us/img714/5214/sigzm.jpg
Yes, you need to remove the hub and put it on a press. It's a simple process, other than that.
92 Sunny 214k, 95 Dimples, 93 James Bondo, 92 SM (Speedie Jr)
Shelley, Apex, Tigger, Max, Baby(cats), Fluffy, Spot, and Peanut (mini horses), Cinnamon & Bitsy(dawgs)
MSR #1001, SCCA #208822Let's go racin'
...or just replace the entire hub.
I just replaced the whole assembly. You can get them from places like
Automotive Driveline Supply
808 West Hurst Boulevard, Hurst, TX 76053-7502
(817) 284-8187
It is not an easy job - http://www.dfwmiata.com/showthread.p...t=Rear+Bearing
If I was to do it again I would have taken the hub to Hurst and had the old bearing pressed out and the new one pressed in.
You can also get them at www.planet-miata.com. I just did the front hubs on mine. I plan to do the backs soon and will most likely order the unit that planet sells.
Bobby
RED RULES!
90 Miata, 04 Rubicon, 05 Boxster
1990 NA - FOR SALE!
http://img714.imageshack.us/img714/5214/sigzm.jpg
Just get complete hub/bearing assemblies from Planet Miata or Parts Group. It's a much less painful and considerably faster experience, albeit a bit more spendy.
'90 "LE" available for purchase soon
2008.5 CWP MS3: JBR 70d trilogy engine mounts, short throw shifter & shift plate bushings; AST 4100 w/ 400lb springs f/r; JRZ camber plates
Are you certain it's the rear bearing? How did you diagnose it?
I used AWD tuning in Flower Mound. I pulled the spindle and they pressed the old bearings out and back in for $40 on both. O'Reilly auto parts usually stocks them for some reason. I've used "National" and they work, but I trust "Timken" more than any other. The "National" brand has a solid crown/retainer for the bearings so its much easier to repack them with AMSoil, which I prefer. Using real grease will probably extend their life 10x; I know front bearings last 3-days at the track unless I pack with real grease and they then much longer.
Do yourself and the guy on the press a favor and buy the updated circlip from a dealer (uses needle nose pliars) and you might want to get new rear hubs at the same time because they're cheap and you won't have to cut the inner race off the old one which is also a pain.
TXMC: Drinkin, shootin, racin!
You know, I never really diagnosed it. Stevan took it for a test drive and he thinks it's a bearing, but when I go to wiggle the wheel in the air, there's no play in it.
1990 NA - FOR SALE!
http://img714.imageshack.us/img714/5214/sigzm.jpg
I actually had it down, I believe. I can certainly do it again to see if that wasn't the case.
If there is still no wiggle with the handbrake down, do you think it's still the wheel bearing or something else?
1990 NA - FOR SALE!
http://img714.imageshack.us/img714/5214/sigzm.jpg
You know, I've had a couple of front wheel bearings fail. One was diagnosed during tech several weeks before it started making noise, but I couldn't feel any slop. The second got noisey and nobody could feel any slop in it. I ran out of time, so I took it to my mechanic. He said between the car and the trash can, the bearings fell out.
Ok, I just dealt with this problem that I chased for 18-months. If you get a roar or ticking noise, and the front wheels have no radial play when checked with your hands at 12 and 6 o'clock, then suspect the rear wheel bearing. I like to check by placing my finger at the caliper ant rotor to feel for play there, you will feel it if it's bad, no need for a dial gauge.
You have to check thrust or axial play on the rear, not radial. The rear brake pad must be backed-off the rotor to do this check or you'll chase your tail like I did. You can also spin the tire and listen for noise.
Do yourself a favor and pack them with real grease like AMSoil which seems to excel over Redline on BITOG.
TXMC: Drinkin, shootin, racin!
I have had a noisy front bearing for over 2 years. The noise is there but hasn't gotten any worse and there is still zero play. I have a replacement hub, but my old hub is stuck on there bad. Between Creek and I we couldn't get the dang thing off even with a BFH.
I have been meaning to bring it to Rogue or somebody with a puller, but you know how it goes when you have a kid and are in school...
Last edited by Jiggerachi; 12-01-2010 at 09:34 AM.
'94 C-Package Black & Tan | MS3x | exhintake | USDM Tein Monoflex 10/8k | My 8 year roadster evolution
I let mine make noise and replace them when I get pad knock-back.
TXMC: Drinkin, shootin, racin!
1990 NA - FOR SALE!
http://img714.imageshack.us/img714/5214/sigzm.jpg
Provide beer and I'll supervise.
TXMC: Drinkin, shootin, racin!