Reply With QuoteSounds like the stalk switch to me.
New electrical gremlin: hi-beams
Just noticed this the other night. If I pull the lever to flash the hi-beams everything works normal, the hi-beams turn on. But if push the lever forward to switch to hi-beams only the lights turn off completely(the running lights stay on).
I know it's not the lights (I think??) because the hi-beams still work when flashed. I'm stumped as to where to look. If it was a fuse or relay wouldn't the headlights as a whole not work, or at least the hi-beams? Could there be a problem with the headlight switch?
'94 C-Package Black & Tan | MS3x | exhintake | USDM Tein Monoflex 10/8k | My 8 year roadster evolution
Sounds like the stalk switch to me.
+1, Try a little contact cleaner on the stalk switch
05 MX-5 Mazdaspeed #1024 Titanium Gray Mica
I was hoping it wouldn't be anything near the gauge cluster. I just hope I can pull that cover without busting the gauge hood. Last time I was fixing anything near it pretty much shattered.
Contact cleaner can be had at a walmart or auto parts store, or do I need to hit up an electronics store?
'94 C-Package Black & Tan | MS3x | exhintake | USDM Tein Monoflex 10/8k | My 8 year roadster evolution
Radioshack, Fry's and possibly Home Depot and Lowes.
It comes with a straw like WD-40 so you might could sqweeze in the hole without taking off the cover or at the least take off the bottom half only.
05 MX-5 Mazdaspeed #1024 Titanium Gray Mica
Funny, the lever in my car does something similar: pushing forward yields high-beams, pulling for flash-to-pass yields...a very dark road.
'90 "LE" available for purchase soon
2008.5 CWP MS3: JBR 70d trilogy engine mounts, short throw shifter & shift plate bushings; AST 4100 w/ 400lb springs f/r; JRZ camber plates
You can pull the stalk assy without pulling the gauge cluster. You just have to pull the wheel.
+1 for contact cleaner - Fry's, Shack, etc...
'94 Black & Black & Tan
'99 head swap, JR header, TDR intake & header blanket, MegaSquirt, RB hollow bar, Tein Flex, 15x8 6ULs, HD M2 Sport, FM cat, Borla cat-back, black '95M interior, MOMO Zebrano, IL Motorsport console...
Dyno Days
8/16/08 (bone stock): 103.1 hp/99.0 lb-ft - Dynojet
8/23/08 (Borla cat-back): 108.2 hp/104.1 lb-ft - Dynojet
8/13/11 (more stuff...): 126 hp/116 lb-ft - Mustang dyno
Roger Moore: the Danny White of James Bonds
i just changed mine out for this reason. i literally had the part in my glovebox for almost 2 years. it took at the most 30 minutes. as noted above, need to pull the steering wheel. iirc its a 21 mm nut. just mark the wheel position before you remove it, and the rest is pretty painless.
95 r white
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