Seat is sold.
FS: Complete Torsen swap setup, 2.5" turbo exhaust, Bride rep seat, brand new battery
Battery: Sold
Exhaust: Pending sale
Enthuza 2.5" Budget Turbo Racer Exhaust for an NA Miata, will throw in 2.5" testpipe (for..testing...purposes only). Catback will fit 1.6l or 1.8l NAs, the testpipe will only fit a 1.6l unless you modify your 1.8 downpipe. Installed 6/29/05, 30,273 miles ago. I've had this exhaust off and on the car for various setups, so actual mileage is less than that, but I don't have exact, sorry. The bottom is scraped a good deal from speed bumps and driveways over the years. The hanger on the tailpipe broke off a few times. I've very sloppily welded it back in place while it was on the car -no problems since. It had a slip-joint fit between the mid-pipe and the muffler. I hate slip-joints, and this one managed to piss me off every few months, so I very sloppily welded it together while still on the car. No more leaks, no more separating while driving. This does make it quite long now though, so you have to get creative if you have a permanent brace going from side to side on your rear control arms. I have a '90, so I did not have that problem. I have the gaskets, but you'd probably want to get new ones (standard 2-bolt 2.5" metal gasket). I also have the nuts and bolts I used, which you are welcome to. All the rubber hangers will be included as well.
Bottom side (i.e. what you'd see when the car is on a lift)
Top side (i.e. what your car will see)
The ugly hanger weld I mentioned. I thought I was better at macro settings, sorry.
Bottom of the muffler (what you'd see with car on lift). I did a half-assed job of wiping it with cleaner for this pic: it should shine up nice and pretty if you put a little effort into it.
Muffler top (underside of your trunk will see this). Same thing as the bottom: I put practically no effort into wiping it off for the pic
The ugly weld to rid myself of the pains of the slip-joint. In my defense, I MIG welded this on the car and the exhaust was COVERED in fresh oil from my turbo drain fitting ripping out of the pan at the time. So it was as contaminated as could be. But again, it's solid and leak-free, so who cares.
And the tip. Again, a quick wipe down is all I did.
Now you're probably thinking, "But, Rob, it's anodized steel..surely it will rust in a matter of minutes." The pictures speak for themselves with regard to that. You're looking at almost 8 years of "rust." I need to note that the small "specks/dots" are actually burnt oil/fluids NOT rust. The testpipe, yes, has a nice layer of surface rust, but is still as solid as can be. That's technically "free" though, so doesn't matter.
Brand new is $359 +shipping, I'd like to see $100 if I can. I would also gladly trade for a sufficient amount of .22lr and/or 40S&W ammo (all must be brass).
Last edited by Rob®; 06-09-2013 at 07:32 PM. Reason: gaskets, hangers
Seat is sold.
Last edited by Rob®; 05-19-2013 at 04:00 PM. Reason: sold
Torsen swap: From a '95 M-edition, so it's a 4.10. I installed it 6/23/07. I bought it from a friend, so I know the claimed 95k miles is close to accurate. I have since put 25,273 miles on it, making it have ~120,273 miles total. I have tracked it, auto-xed it, mass amounts of highway pulls with it, et al. Basically, I used it like anyone with a turbo Miata would. I must note that I am also a maintenance freak. The fluid has been changed three (3) times with Redline 75-90 fluid since I've installed it. Yes, 3 fluid changes in not even 26k miles of use from me. I'd drive the car, then take it apart and let it sit. When I'd put it back together, I would change all the fluids, the rear included. Pics show there are no leaks at any of the seals. Including the 2-piece axles, driveshaft, complete rear, and all needed bolts for a complete swap.
You can see that axle seal is dry, as is between the pumpkin and the carrier (this is the bottom of the diff)
Bottom of the driver's side axle seal. Again, you can clearly see it's not leaking.
Bottom of the passenger's side axle. Dry.
Bottom of the snout. See how dry the seal is?
Axle I had on the driver's side (they are the same though)
Axle used on the passenger side
Driver's side diff mount. You can see it's not broken, and the stock bushing is still in good shape.
Passenger's side diff mount. Again, notice it's not broken, and the bushing is in good condition.
Some of these pictures look wet, and that's because it was. I started to spray it all with a cleaner, but quickly realized that I was getting nowhere.
The anti-seize on the axle splines is from when I originally installed everything years ago. The axles gave me no trouble at all coming free from the hubs. At all. They literally fell out from their own weight. Axle boots are not torn. All you'd need to swap this into a 1.6 car is some fluid and time.
$600 firm at the moment, on CL for $700.
Last edited by Rob®; 06-09-2013 at 07:33 PM. Reason: sale no longer pending
Trying to find more information on the seat. Width? Looks like it's narrow, but I'm skinny so I bet I'd fit. Layback angle?
2013 Audi S4
1997 Montego Blue Miata
That is info I really don't know specifics.
I have a 32-34" waist, depends on pants, how much I ate, whatever. I fit perfectly snug. The member I bought it from, bigrsturbo, has to be about a 36" waist, and I don't see how he could squeeze into it, if I'm being honest. But he did (even when it was in my car). The ole tape measure shows 13" at the narrowest part across the seat, without compressing the foam. But I wouldn't go by that since I seem to measure about 15" across my hips (over clothes, looking down).
No idea on layback angle. There are two layback options though: one is practically straight up, the other leans back a decent amount. It is currently in the near-straight-up position, but I liked the leaned back position more since it would support my legs much better. Adjusting is just a single bolt on each side, plus having to slide the seat forward/backward (stock slider, remember) to accommodate the new angle. Or just drill new holes in the angle brackets till you're happy. OR, you can make your own brackets and have it at whatever angle you want.
If you can get to Denton during the week or Haslet/TMS on the weekends/nights, you're more than welcome to sit in it. That's about the best I can say at this point.
EDIT: Let me clarify a bit: The seat back itself is fixed. No adjustment at all. To adjust the layback position, you have to adjust the seat on the rails. The rear mounts stay as is, and there are 2 holes/choices in the front mounts to pick the angle you want. So you are literally laying back the entire seat.
Last edited by Rob®; 05-18-2013 at 03:33 PM.
Oh, you can email me ([email protected]), call/text me (97three-222-9878..yes, 97*3*..and I prefer text, you'll most likely get my VM if you call, so leave a message and I will call you back), or PM me here.
For now, this stuff is here and here only. If I still have any of it in a week or two, I will start listing it elsewhere, and for more moneys.
Thanks
More stuff: rear finish panel, rear subframe brace
Rear finish panel:
The only damage to the panel.
Close up of the damage
Note all plastic clips are there, as are the studs for the nuts (I will include as well).
You can see in the installed pic that the damage is visible, but not severe. It's been there since before I even bought the car back in 2003. Most people never even notice it until it's pointed out. Regardless, I've seen a few go just recently with far worse damage than mine for $90 and more. I'd be happy with $50, but an offer's an offer.
Rear subframe brace: Sold
Last edited by Rob®; 06-04-2013 at 07:21 AM.
FWIW, that rear brace looks like an old Brainstorm piece. Later sold by 949 for a brief time.
'90 "LE" available for purchase soon
2008.5 CWP MS3: JBR 70d trilogy engine mounts, short throw shifter & shift plate bushings; AST 4100 w/ 400lb springs f/r; JRZ camber plates
If Moss sold it back in 2003, you're probably correct. Thanks.
Rear is now on craigslist for $700 OBO.
Finish panel will hit eBay sometime before this weekend.
Subframe brace is probably going to be included with the RB hollow front bar and 949 endlinks unless someone grabs it before I pull that stuff.
Battery price updated.
Sent you a PM on the battery. I need it if still available.
Nothing like the whine of a SC at full throttle!
Ill pick up the rear bar and possibly finish panel you gonna be at Tdr Saturday?
Yes, sir. I'm hoping to be there at the 8am set up time.
Battery, suspension brace, rear finish panel pending.
Ill be crusing too cars and coffee then head up there I got dibs on that bar gotta think about that panel as mines not much worse
Battery and subframe brace are sold. Thanks, guys!
Rob you did say you where good with mega squirt and e85 right I have a few questions if you wouldn't mind sending me a text 972-510-4105
No, at this point I dislike MS. Long story short, they are a pain at work. A large pain. Same with the FSAE car, but I suspect that's an operator error more than anything (not I). For MS questions you'll want to talk to Hustler. But I doubt he will want to work for free.
E85, yes, that's pretty much all we tune with.
Last edited by Rob®; 06-05-2013 at 07:06 AM.
Thank you I may need to get in touch with him
Exhaust is sold -can't edit it out for some reason.
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