Going rate for a clutch installation?

[cwisenheimer]

I need to get a clutch installed in my 2002 in prep for a turbo. The last time I had one done, my mechanic was a guy that did work in his home shop and his day job was as a Mazda dealer mechanic. Great guy, honest, trustworthy, knew his stuff. Unfortunately, he moved away. IIRC, he charged me $225 for labor. I had planned to just have Rogue do it but he's got such a great reputation that he's booked solid. I checked a couple of other shops and one quoted me $450, the other $400 and a three-week wait. What is the going rate for a clutch installation these days (labor only)?

[OZMDD]

Its a good 4-5 hours at least, for a one man job. With a lift and shop tools, it should be closer to 2.5-3 hrs, so I think those prices are a bit steep. I'd figure $300 is a fair price for the labor, but what do I know.

[POS Racing]

Its not a bad DIY.

Changed out the clutch in our '02 last year with the help from Onething. Was in no rush took me a few days.

[jrj512]

Also keep in mind that many mechanics will not allow you to supply the parts. If something goes wrong, then there would be the argument over whose fault it is.

[Flyin96M]

I've done a few of these and I agree somebody that has done a few should be able to knock it out in 4-5 hours if there are no snags along the way. Some things to note are that I would recommend changing the rear main seal and all the transmission seals while you have it out. I would also be prepared to replace your shifter boots and rebuilding the shifter is a worthwhile investment. You are obviously putting in a heavy duty clutch so go ahead and replace the clutch line with a braided one. What clutch are you going to use? I just removed my ACT HD clutch as the pedal was pretty heavy and the GF was having difficulty operating it. What is your timeframe for the clutch?

Edit:
One last thing are you going to use the stock flywheel or are you going with a lightweight one? If stock then remember you will need time to allow time for it to get surfaced.

[2K Miata]

Most Mechanics will charge by the going book rates. So I'm thinking $400-450 sounds about right. Quick search on the net "Most independent repair shops charge between $70-$90 per hour and most dealerships charge between $80-$125 per hour." So figuring 5 hours for a straight clutch job (that is with no pp resurfacing,shifter rebuilt, rear main seal, slave replacement and braided lines) it could be between $350 - $625 just for labor and no parts. So If want the other things it will add to the labor cost.

I've done a dozen or more clutch jobs in the past and it is something that I paid someone to do the last time I needed one.

I think I paid under a grand for the install with a light-weight flywheel, high-pressure clutch, rear seal, braided lines and new fluid. I went with the 1.6 SPEC Stage 2+ Clutch, Aluminum Flywheel, SS Braided Line and Redline fluids on a NB. The 1.6 setup on a 1.8 engine is a little buzzy at high revs, but the engine sure does get there quickly.

Good luck with whatever you decide to do.

[cwisenheimer]

I got an FM clutch and I did plan to do the rear main at the same time. I've already replaced the boots/rebuilt the shifter. I decided against the braided line and I prefer not to use a lightened flywheel. I think I may go ahead and replace the slave while it's apart just for good measure though. It sounds like I got reasonable quotes too, darn it. I was hoping cheaper. Oh well. Also, I think I know my limits of my abilities and frustration levels well enough to realize this is one job better done by a professional than me.

[2K Miata]

Really if you aren't comfortable doing this I would let someone like Stevan do it for you. Way back in the day we did 7-8 of these over a couple weekends using a four post lift with teams of three or four people. usually 4 hours a car, sometimes quicker most of the times longer because of unexpected problems.

One major issue I've run into over the years is getting the bolts undone on the factory down pipe. No matter how much PB Blaster and heat a sawsall was the only solution. This resulted in replacing the factory header with aftermarket one. While some bell housing bolts where almost impossible to loosen an impact sir gun helped most of the time. And a wide range of 1/2" extensions, wobbles and u-joints make getting at them easier. I've done an equal amount on the floor using a transmission jack and again it is not something I enjoyed doing. No matter what anybody says it is not an "easy" DIY project.

[OZMDD]

I've done it in 2 hrs on a lift.

If you can't get it done in the timeframe you need by one of the experts, LMK and I would consider taking on the job. Unless you're replacing the flywheel, I'd need it overnight to allow time to get the flywheel resurfaced. Best to do Rear main seal and clutch slave while down there, though you could always do the slave yourself. Don't forget the pilot bearing!