Reply With Quote^I did... Gas was clear.
Did you ever pull the 5 carpet plugs and half dozen Philips and look in the tank?
That sure made JJs car run like schitt!
^I did... Gas was clear.
I'm sticking with my original answer.
Maybe 4 wheels aren't so bad after all... wickett.org
It only goes to show when people can no longer discriminate on the grounds of race, religion, or sexual orientation, they can improvise and still find someone to hate. - Dave Moulton
Water in the AFM harness?Originally Posted by tailchaser
I'm going with Cam sensor if we are wagering. Sounds similar to an issue that I had when the cam sensor failed on my 99. I know they are in different places on the two motors, but yours is right by the heat hose right?
Thing is, the cam sensor is mechanical on the NA, as opposed to a magnetic field sensor on the NB. Not impossible, but different animals.
Polished Turd Racing
Mick wrote: "I think Jerrett is the best autocrosser I have ever seen naked."
It's on the back side of the valve cover, but on the other side of the coil vs the NB. It's possible, but I'm not getting any fault codes generated.
PS - Something else just crossed my mind. I know some of the older Miata's have flaky ignitions. I have not tried jiggling the key when it acts up to see if anything changes.
Older miatas or older miata drivers...
Checked the accordion piece of the crossover...no splits or cracks. Tried a different set of injectors and a different fuel regulator, no joy. Tried jiggling the key when it acted up, no change.
The idle will drop down to around 400-500 RPM and get lumpy intermittently. When it starts to run normal again, it's like instant on and will throw you back in the seat (as well as a 1.6 Miata can that is).
Did you splice or extend the wires on the O2 sensor.
http://www.primechoiceautoparts.com/...-Symptoms.aspx
Finally, your engine may show some faulty oxygen sensor symptoms. Some common engine O2 sensor symptoms that you can experience are a rough engine idle, a misfiring engine, or an engine that hesitates or stumbles when attempting to accelerate.
^Actually, yes...I think there's more than 1 splice too. I may have a spare...I will try that tomorrow. Thanks!
Could the coils be going bad (or plug wires)?
^I bench tested the coil and tried a different set of wires. No help.
PS
Would just unplugging the O2 sensor be a valid test of it?
Last edited by sammm; 06-04-2015 at 06:14 AM.
Hmm, good question. Rogue?
Polished Turd Racing
Mick wrote: "I think Jerrett is the best autocrosser I have ever seen naked."
Given you need to drive it a good bit to test it, I would not recommend it. IIRC, if the ECU doesn't see the O2 sensor, it goes in to open loop and runs really rich. This could potentially kill the cat.
I know some data loggers will show O2 readings. Would that only be on a OBD2 car?
Good point...I'll just swap it out.
I think so...not much diagnostic info on an OBDI car.
Is low RPM a new symptom? I don't remember you mentioning that before. Is it the "idle dip" problem described on the pointy board?
Currently:
1991 Mariner Blue (daily driver)
Previously:
1994 M-Edition
I don't think it was happening before, but can't be sure. I did notice it yesterday for sure. It wouldn't stay low...it would eventually get back up to 800 or even a bit higher (1K).
My spare O2 sensor is a 4-wire, different connector.
Should I get one that splices in ($20), or spring for the single-cable version with the correct plug ($70)? If I knew it was the problem, I'd buy the expensive one.
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