does anyone in town run megasquirt?
I'm tempted to pick it up, but am really worried about intstalling this thing, and trying to remember "C" from college to get the thing running.
None of the Miata guys that I have met here run it. Kags1969 has talked about it, but he isn't very local now (moved to Austin, but does seem to show up at Gary's about once a month). As far as other solutions, Gary has been playing with the EManage and is an expert with the Power Card and the Split Second. I and several others here run the LINK, but I suspect you are not interested in spending that much.Originally Posted by mr brg
I need to talk to gary. I don't want to mess with the o2 clamp issues, and keeping the stock maf. I don't want to deal with making a loom bigger than the stock electronics. Man, I'm just going to save up and do sds. I need fuel and spark. I've tried to run cars on piggy back crap before, and it never really runs right, and is just a mess of band aids. I was so happy to get a 91 because I didn't ahve to worry about obd inspection crap, and now I guess I have to man up and spend as much on engine management as I did the car.
Link is the same price as sds, but I don't really want to pay that much.
With link can I eliminate the maf, run a map, and does it also provide ignition (retard) whatever else do I need to know? I payed $1600 for this car, I don't want to double it on shitty engine managment.
For the 90-93, you would run this LINK. This is what I am running. It completely replaces your stock ECU, and it plugs into the stock wiring harness. There are a few wires in the harness that you need to move, and a couple wiring changes you need to make under the hood, but it is no where near as bad as what you would be looking at with most of the other solutions out there.
With the basic kit, you get a MAP sensor that is plug and play with the wire that normally goes to the AFM. Removing the AFM does require you to fab up a new intake, but that took me 10 minutes digging through Gary's parts bins to do. The MAP also has a jack to plug the optional knock sensor into so adding the knock sensor down the line is really easy.
The other sensor that the kit adds is an air temperature sensor, as you loose the stock one when you remove the AFM. This also takes a little fabing, but it isn't too bad.
There is an optional Boost Control Solenoid that wires right in, but not having a turbo I don't know much about it.
Another thing the ECU allows you to do is re-wire the injectors for Sequential Fuel Injection (Mazda added this to the 1.8 cars but not the 1.6s). It will control the stock injectors or you can set it for several other sizes. Included with it are base maps for stock, 440s, and 550s. I am running 440s, which should be good for up to around 240 hp.
With the ECU, you get a keypad that allows you to view all of the sensor outputs and adjust all types of things. You have complete control of the fuel and timing maps, how the air temperature sensor and knock sensor outputs effect fuel and timing, rev limiter, fan turn on temp, and more all from the keypad. A WB02 can also be wired into the ECU so you can set it to autotune. (I got my WB02 from Gary for around $200). There is a free program called RTLINK that allows you to view all the keypad stuff via a laptop, but you need to buy the Data Log Lab if you want to be able to data log, or edit maps from your PC. One of the nice things is that you can send a log to Flyin Miata and they will review it and offer advice for editing it. They won't do everything for you, but they will do you a lot while trying to teach you to be able to do it yourself.
One complaint about the LINK that some have is that it can't control fueling past 22psi. This is not an issue unless you want to go over 350hp, and that will require all types of high $$$$ stuff like a built engine, RX-7 Transmission and diff, etc.
If you want to check out the installation and tuning, here are the manual links:
http://www.flyinmiata.com/support/in...stallation.pdf
http://www.flyinmiata.com/support/in...ECU_tuning.pdf
By the way, I hear that adding the LINK to a stock 1.6 is good for 10-15 hp depending on how much time you spend tuning. Removing the AFM is good for over 5 hp by itself, and the LINK will allow you to gain more by leaning out the fuel (that is really rich in stock form) and custom tune the timing curve.
whoa, link is like, the most simple stasnd alone system I've ever seen. Can these ever be purchased used?
They show up here a few times a year, usually priced around $1200 and a few go on Ebay each year for around $1000. My plan was to go this route, but once I was ready I waited 3 months with only one hitting the market. The one that came available was for $1350 (although it had the optional knock sensor and Serial link), and would have cost another $75 to upgrade it to the latest chip. There was no way I was going used to save less than 15%, so I tried to negotiate the price down a little. Someone else bough it at full price the next day. I was tired of waiting so I bought new. This is probably the best way to go as it gives you the full support of FM. They say they will still support second hand products that were originally purchased from them but I have to believe there is a limit to this generosity.
I did end up getting my Serial link off of Ebay for less than half of what they sell for, and they show up a lot for a couple reasons... 1) it is the same box for all ECUs, so there are more out there, and 2) people end up selling there car with the ECU in it, but forget about the serial link sitting in a box from when they tuned the car. When they come across it, it goes on E-Bay.
Gary has an SDS on his '99 he might want to sell cheap. It's been sitting idle on his car for quite a while. Ask him about it.
Hopefully its not going anywhere, I just raided the parts car.
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