I have read this thread a few times and I am still not sure if the issue is MM running hot, MM's car running hot, or both.
I figured it was a bit of both. Looks like not a lot of maintenance on his car before he got it, now that he has it it is improving.Originally Posted by Titus
I have read this thread a few times and I am still not sure if the issue is MM running hot, MM's car running hot, or both.
An increased lack of maintenance?now that he has it it is improving.
I was looking at those cool air scoops too. I thought about pulling the trigger. Looks like a good idea.
Nah, he has successfully sucker a few of us to help him a time or two get his Miata up to snuff!An increased lack of maintenance?
FYI, I just ordered new springs and tiresNah, he has successfully sucker a few of us to help him a time or two get his Miata up to snuff!
I wuv you guys
EDIT: Ordered Tein springs the day before I found out that there's a bunch of counterfeit ones on Ebay
09 Lexus RX350
.... no Miata
Me. Me. Me.
On the track, I am fearless.
If you were as slow as me, you wouldn't be afraid either.
1994 M Edition
CSP 67
I could probably join the fun!
Randy (who'd rather be)
- - - - -
Outside of a dog, a book is man's best friend. Inside a dog, it's too dark to read. -Groucho Marx
2005 Saab 9³ Arc 2.0L Turbo
To add to the improved cooling, the belly pan holds a lot of heat in. We modify the belly pan on all FI and track cars by removing the side panels. This allows more air flow to take the heat away from the header and causes a vacuum to pull the heat out as your speed increases. Even at the high powers we are running on the track the highest temperature I have seen has been about 220F. You will also notice cooler temperatures around the tunnel do to the better air flow.
On the '99-05 Miatas cut the side about 1" after the radius from the bottom, this will open the complete side area. You will see a little more engine bay dirt, but this is a trade off for better air flow. Use tin snips to cut the soft plastic.
On the '90-97 Miata you want to cut the sides off after the radiator, this will keep your sides in use in the front to direct air. With the belly pan attached, mark from the inside (usually it is dirty enough you can use a finger to mark) where the end of the radiator is. Remove the belly pan and cut down this line and across the bottom about 1" after the radius.
If you have a '90-97 with the top section above the radiator open or want to improve the looks, see our TDR Cowling on our website.
Gary
Danger!!! This Dog Bites.
www.trackdogracing.com
That cowling sounds good..
I just finished a little "dental work" and the teeth are gone for the summer. Sucks because I get so many comments one them, but oh well. Over the next few paychecks I guess I'll be getting the TSI's and headlight lids, and getting the radiator flushed.
09 Lexus RX350
.... no Miata
Yep, I vote for a radiator flush or a trip to Vatozone; they have lifetime warrenty radiators for around $130 I think. You shouldn't see a change in temp by turning on the ac unless the radiator is blocked or those teeth were blocking too much air flow. With a new radiator and thermostat, my cars temp gauge never moves once fully warmed up. Wiring the ac fan in parallel is also an easy good mod.
90 MX5 281k miles! - euro spec, Porsche Riviera Blue w/black hardtop, 97 motor swap, vintage Borbet rims, GC, FM shock hats/frame rails/rear sub-brace, AGX, sway bar, stb, Fidanza/ACT combo, EBC Yellows
92 COMMA SM - new paint coming soon...
I could not believe how much heat those shifter boots let through, as everyone else has said check those first. Also check the turret for the shifter and make sure it has oil in it while you have the boots off
When you do replace the boots rub them down good with baby powder it helps keep the rubber soft
I think the floor board of my car is 40 degrees cooler after replacing the boots
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