Reply With QuoteBall joint boots seems more appropriate. Anyways those boots need to be pressed on. Most people would get new ball joints but the dealer wants $50 a piece.
Seems to me, unless you have play in your steering, all you need is new rack boots.
My tie rod boots are OK, I just need the steering rack boots.Originally Posted by cam76034
On the track, I am fearless.
If you were as slow as me, you wouldn't be afraid either.
1994 M Edition
CSP 67
Ball joint boots seems more appropriate. Anyways those boots need to be pressed on. Most people would get new ball joints but the dealer wants $50 a piece.
Seems to me, unless you have play in your steering, all you need is new rack boots.
$34.20 each through Mazdaspeed motorsports!Ball joint boots seems more appropriate. Anyways those boots need to be pressed on. Most people would get new ball joints but the dealer wants $50 a piece.
Seems to me, unless you have play in your steering, all you need is new rack boots.
Nope, no play yet. Stiff as I like it. Just boots are worn. Figured it boots were that bad I would just replace the whole joint. That saves from having to be pressed in. Also I get lifetime alignments, so I don't have to worry about getting exactly back. I would like to come by and atleast see a rack boot changed.
Agreed. I didn't realize they were talking about the litttle rubber boot over the tie rod end. The labor involved taking it off is 90 percent of the job.
Since my car is less than 6 months old, the boots do not need to be replaced. However, I think I will come by. It's always good to learn these sorts of things.
More than welcome. I will PM my address to everyone who expressed interest later on in the week.
Also, if anyone has a tool that works well with removing Miata ball joints that might prove useful. Otherwise, there is a work around listed in the Enthusiasts Manual.
I do have a ball joint removal tool for my past hot rod projects, I will see if it fits, or customize it to make it fit for these applications. I will bring it, as it will make things much easier. I do have a three pound hammer for persuasion as well.
Sure, you mean the 15.99 ones from O'reilly, right?
Anybody that wants, PM me, with your year and I'll get on it Wednesday.
I'm in.
On the track, I am fearless.
If you were as slow as me, you wouldn't be afraid either.
1994 M Edition
CSP 67
So the 28th is out?
Thanks for sticking to the plan. I have a race in Pennington the following day. Just like the "A" team, "I love it when a plan comes together."
This is still a go.
I assume everyone who is swapping boots is bringing their own. I just ordered mine and found out O'Reilly's does carry them.
Part number is 103-2697, Line code BA. $15.99/ea. They seem in short supply as one of mine is coming from Dallas and the other from Seagoville.
Autozone can also get them if you pre-pay.
Well, I am in a funny situation. The school CAD servers have shut down for the last 24hours, and I have lost about 2 days of work so far. If the servers don't come back tomorrow then why not? I have nothing better to do.
If however, the servers do come back, then I will be chained to the computer pretty much 10hours a day till Monday to catch up :)
i believe the lower ball joints (for those who want to replace it) are bolt in. the upper ball joints are non replaceable, unless you buy a new upper control arm. there is no need for a ball joint removal tool. oh yeah, to change out the rack boots, youll need to remove the outter tie rod, (some here called it a tie rod end) its a good time to replace it. everyone who removes their outter tie rods will need an alignment if you dont reinstall the part on EXACTLY where it was before. come see me, im at work that day. once the car is lifted up from the body, shake the front wheel and see if theres any play and/or popping. looking at the lifted wheel, shake it left and right (like trying to STEER the wheel by having your hands on the 9 and 3 oclock positions on the tire.) then the same thing up and down, if theres any play or popping, parts will ne need to be replaced. on my car, if you push the wheel down towards the ground (when its up in the air,) theres play too, thats the ball joints, or in my case, BOTH ball joints. its a hazardous situation driving like this and is not reccommended. (hence im changing them out asap)
Cone Cerned is done!
Mine had to wait as we discovered I have torn boots on both outer tie rods.Might as well do both at the same time so I will be planning another Tech day. Maybe cam76034 and Sharpie can make it out this next time.
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