Something stuck in the dust shield?
Not when I stop but I can hear a light squeal when I am driving against a wall. I took the brakes apart tonight and everything looked good. Good pad still left, all clips in their place. The only issue was that the inside pad had slightly uneven wear. The bottom was slightly more worn than the top. Side to side everything looked even though. My main thought was dry slider pins. Should lubing my slider pins solve this problem? Should I write off this set of pads now? Thanks.
P.S. Jrj512 any comments you have about lubing slider pins can be omitted from this thread. TIA
Something stuck in the dust shield?
Could be a loose pad... are ALL the clips and springs still in place (and in good shape)? That's the only thing I can think of right off...
'94 Black & Black & Tan
'99 head swap, JR header, TDR intake & header blanket, MegaSquirt, RB hollow bar, Tein Flex, 15x8 6ULs, HD M2 Sport, FM cat, Borla cat-back, black '95M interior, MOMO Zebrano, IL Motorsport console...
Dyno Days
8/16/08 (bone stock): 103.1 hp/99.0 lb-ft - Dynojet
8/23/08 (Borla cat-back): 108.2 hp/104.1 lb-ft - Dynojet
8/13/11 (more stuff...): 126 hp/116 lb-ft - Mustang dyno
Roger Moore: the Danny White of James Bonds
How much brake perssure are you applying? Heavy Break or very light? Do you notice a difference if either is done?
Blah blah blah!
Hmmmm... is it a front or rear brake? Either way, the bottom of the pad will tend to wear more than the top since it's the leading edge, so that's normal. It's not worn down anywhere close to the wear indicator, is it? I noticed my new pads had a pretty substantial wear bar - one that will start hitting the rotor well before the pads are totally shot. Also, that wear squeaker is on the bottom of the inside pad...
'94 Black & Black & Tan
'99 head swap, JR header, TDR intake & header blanket, MegaSquirt, RB hollow bar, Tein Flex, 15x8 6ULs, HD M2 Sport, FM cat, Borla cat-back, black '95M interior, MOMO Zebrano, IL Motorsport console...
Dyno Days
8/16/08 (bone stock): 103.1 hp/99.0 lb-ft - Dynojet
8/23/08 (Borla cat-back): 108.2 hp/104.1 lb-ft - Dynojet
8/13/11 (more stuff...): 126 hp/116 lb-ft - Mustang dyno
Roger Moore: the Danny White of James Bonds
No wear indicator on these backing plates. It is the right front inside pad. The noise is with no brake pressure applied, once I touch the brake at all the noise goes away for a second.
Still sounds like the pad's somehow slightly loose and not pulling away from the disc all the way. I'd just clean and lube everything thoroughly (including slider pins, to make sure the caliper isn't binding), then double-check the clips to make sure they're not binding on the pad. Don't forget to use a little anti-seize (not grease) on the pads where they contact the clips and the piston.
And, uh... if that doesn't work, then I'm fresh outta ideas...
'94 Black & Black & Tan
'99 head swap, JR header, TDR intake & header blanket, MegaSquirt, RB hollow bar, Tein Flex, 15x8 6ULs, HD M2 Sport, FM cat, Borla cat-back, black '95M interior, MOMO Zebrano, IL Motorsport console...
Dyno Days
8/16/08 (bone stock): 103.1 hp/99.0 lb-ft - Dynojet
8/23/08 (Borla cat-back): 108.2 hp/104.1 lb-ft - Dynojet
8/13/11 (more stuff...): 126 hp/116 lb-ft - Mustang dyno
Roger Moore: the Danny White of James Bonds
Go get it some new pads and see if the noise goes away.
How thick are the pads on it now?? How worn down are they??
Majik,
I've got the same type of problem but didn't think anything of it b/c my HP+ pads are so damn noisy anyway. I was looking at the brakes the other day and noticed that they have the same uneven wear that yours are having. I'm not really sure what's causing it.
I've got new rotors and HPS pads that'll go in this weekend. Hopefully that gets rid of any problems.
Thomas
V-to-the-Dub
My car was making a noise like that, and I replaced all the pads and it fixed it, and I lubed the slider pins pretty good.
"Racing makes heroin addiction look like a vague longing for something salty" - Peter Egan
Brake squeal that is barely noticeable unless the radio is off and next to a wall, huh? This is a very complicated process. Blow the dust out of your brakes with an air hose. If that doesn't work, Lube the back plates of your brake pads and the contact points that ride in the clips. This oughta fix it, if you still have 50% or more pad life remaining.
1994 R-package - gone, but not forgotten.
1966 Toyota Land Cruiser FJ40. Restification in progress. or should I say De-RUSTification in progress?
1984 Honda VF1100S. V4 Fury!
I noticed the same uneven wear when I changed my pads a couple weeks ago.
Had the same problem and was solved after changing the pads. The front pads were shot when I changed them out.Originally Posted by Majik
Not when I stop but I can hear a light squeal when I am driving against a wall.
Gabriel
hmm...interesting, I'm also having the same problem from my rear brakes after re-installing the daily vatozone pads after going to the Ranch the other month. Pads are almost new and I replaced the rotors and all hardware in say Nov.
What does everyone recommend to lube the slider pins. I assume that's why mine are making the slight squeal. Everytime I remove the calipers it seems as though all the grease is gone or burned up! I've tried white lithium grease, anti-seize and high temp wheel bearing grease and they still come apart as though they have not been lubed!
90 MX5 281k miles! - euro spec, Porsche Riviera Blue w/black hardtop, 97 motor swap, vintage Borbet rims, GC, FM shock hats/frame rails/rear sub-brace, AGX, sway bar, stb, Fidanza/ACT combo, EBC Yellows
92 COMMA SM - new paint coming soon...
Clean up the slider pins and use regular wheel bearing grease - the stuff that looks kinda like caramel. Whoever did my brakes last used grease on the front caliper pins, but anti-seize on the rear ! Anyhow, it made a huge mess, and one of my rear calipers was binding up some.
Couple of things on the grease... 1) you're going to lose some over the course of driving, you can't help that... 2) double check all your rubber seals and boots to make sure they're holding the grease like they should... 3) really good tip from POS the other night: clean all the old grease out with a pipe cleaner and start fresh...
'94 Black & Black & Tan
'99 head swap, JR header, TDR intake & header blanket, MegaSquirt, RB hollow bar, Tein Flex, 15x8 6ULs, HD M2 Sport, FM cat, Borla cat-back, black '95M interior, MOMO Zebrano, IL Motorsport console...
Dyno Days
8/16/08 (bone stock): 103.1 hp/99.0 lb-ft - Dynojet
8/23/08 (Borla cat-back): 108.2 hp/104.1 lb-ft - Dynojet
8/13/11 (more stuff...): 126 hp/116 lb-ft - Mustang dyno
Roger Moore: the Danny White of James Bonds