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Thread: Miata running hot.. Need help and advice please

  1. #1
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    Default Miata running hot.. Need help and advice please

    Some of the specifics- 92 miata 170k temp guage sitting around 1 o'clock on the guage, 1 yr old factory radiator and cap, recently flushed and 50/50 ratio, thermo switch checked and functioning, both fans working properly, removed coolant return hose to block to check water pump=good flow,new mazda thermostat, no leaks and i don't have to add any coolant, and lastly did compression check today and all cylinders to verify head gasket and it checked out great with no air bubbles in the coolant... have I missed anything.. pls advice.. any local shops you guys would recommend to diagnose and fix??? thanks for the help MIATA friends

  2. #2

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    I'd sell that car as fast as you can!

    The mixture isn't 50/50 we did put some distilled water in it.

    I'm thinking it's the water pump since it is the only item the previous owner didn't replace.

    There is some more good stuff to check.

    Miata Solutions is the best there is for a local shop!

  3. #3

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    I am not sure this is the fix ... but ... my 99 was runing a little wramer than usual last week in the Dallas downtown stop-n-go traffic. I am due for an oil change. After I changed the oil, the needle of temp gauge barely move even in today 103F and driven hard.
    Gabriel

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    Quote Originally Posted by POS Racing
    There is some more good stuff to check.

    Miata Solutions is the best there is for a local shop!

    Thanks for the links POS. I have actually been reading up on those links for a few days now. getting frustrated.. just want it to run normal
    BTW you have a pm

  5. #5
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    Thanks for heads up gab.. i believe i still have about 2k left before i have to change out the oil.

  6. #6

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    Quote Originally Posted by POS Racing
    I'm thinking it's the water pump since it is the only item the previous owner didn't replace.
    How scientific was your test?? The water pump is the only item that that was not replaced by the previous owners. So the possibiliy is high that that is the original 170,000 mile water pump.

    Have you switched back to the OEM intake setup or are you still drawing air directly next to the exhaust manifold??

  7. #7
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    POS 2's intake is back to stock form and also checked timing and it was at 11

  8. #8

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    Check your PM's!

    Anyone know what are the signs of a failing H20 pump??

  9. #9

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    Generally they leak at the shaft. Impellers could disintegrate but that would be a rare occurrance and should put rust crap in the coolant.
    Daily Driver: 2013 Club edition in Pearl White Mica

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  10. #10

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    Quote Originally Posted by channelmaniac
    Generally they leak at the shaft. Impellers could disintegrate but that would be a rare occurrence and should put rust crap in the coolant.
    hhmmm never saw any icky crap in the old radiator, but with a 170,000 miles on it ya gotta wonder how much of the impeller is still around.

    Some History:
    Radiator, Radiator Cap, Thermostat and all Hoses replaced July 2005
    All88 Replaced the thermostat on Friday with an OEM part.
    I also recall All88 telling me he replaced a belt or two not that long ago.

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    Driver general default's Avatar
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    Any front teeth added?

    What about the A/C system?
    Is it cycling normally?

    Just thinking about some other things that could influence the engine temps.

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    This time a year 220+ is common and nothing th threat about, however is it getting hotter while on the highway or just idleing?

    We had a customer's car that kept increasing in temperature only when we were testing on the highway. As soon as you slowed back down the tempertures would drop. Turned out to be a clogged radiator. With higher flow at higher RPM the efficiency went down due to reduced cooling channels.

    Also if this car at one time was low on water and was sitting exposing the cast iron block to air, this would cause oxidizing leaving rusty particles to clog up a few radiator runners. If you want to test another radiator we have a couple.

    We are pulling a double core radiator out of a customer car tonight to replace it with our PWR radiator and a TDR intercooler and is for sale for $50. we know it works just fine.

    I have not seen a water pump fail partially, they either work or they don't. Give us a call if you want it 214-280-6172.

    Gary
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    MME Goodwill Ambassador onething's Avatar
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    My water pump was leaking. I had it replaced and then the temp would rise only if the AC was on and I was at hiway speeds. Sitting in line at the bank with the AC on was never a problem.
    Problem was diagnosed as clogged radiator. I replaced the radiator Saturday and gave it an extensive test around noon. It ran fine.
    I'd take TrackDog's offer and try a different radiator. Took me less than 2 hours with sammm's help to swap and it was my first attempt.

    I'd also suggest 60% water / 40% coolant.
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  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by onething
    I'd also suggest 60% water / 40% coolant.
    That was going to be my first suggestion. Its the easiest to try too.

  15. #15

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    Quote Originally Posted by POS Racing
    Check your PM's!

    Anyone know what are the signs of a failing H20 pump??
    Yea, it leaks.

    I can't imagine it being the orginal with that many miles, most (not all) are replaced with the timing belt, and the car's got enough miles it should have had at least one, possibly two Timing belt changes.

    I too have been having high temps, this last week. I'm running between 102c and 106c on the highway. I've been experimenting with different things to get more air through the radiator, and they have helped, as the temps I'm currently running, I was running when the daily high's were still in the low 90's.

    I'm also running 25/75 antifreeze/water ratio.
    '08 Copper Red GT PRHT, '06 Accord EXL, '05 Dodge Magnum R/T, '01 V8 Dakota for pulling 2135 Chaparral.

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    Quote Originally Posted by general default
    Any front teeth added?

    What about the A/C system?
    Is it cycling normally?

    Just thinking about some other things that could influence the engine temps.
    hey general. no blockage at all... ac works just fine..

  17. #17
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    I'd also suggest 60% water / 40% coolant.[/QUOTE]



    Thanks for the feedback guys. how do measure the ratio/ how much coolant does the miata hold? seems like it works for a lot of folks...

    had a chance to talk to trackdog this afternoon.. trying to work around my work schedule to be able to see him... i am so tired of turning on the heater to lower the temp down to normal

  18. #18
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    a quick question to M1 owners please. where does your factory temp guage sit when your car is running a little hot when it's 100 degrees or more...- what's "normal" hot for the miata? any range after mid point to "H" ? is that considered normal hot? thanks for your feedback.

  19. #19

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    Flyin Miata uses 70% h2o 30% antifreeze, changing the ratio has helped at least 3 M1's run cooler...
    Smile
    93' LE #1136 - FM II
    250k miles

  20. #20
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    The radiator holds right at 1 gallon of fluid. 'Normal' operating temperature on the gauge is just left (on the cooler side) of the mid-point. Don't forget to use distilled water. DO NOT use your garden hose!

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