Speedometer Cable??
Speedometer cable in my '94 also give adible clues on how fast it is going. screek screek screek
Can you lube the cable or replacement the perfered method?
Since I have the dash on my workbench figure it is a good time to adress the screek screek screek noise.
You could probably get some kind of lube down in there, but the cable is like $55 delivered. Not that it's hard at all to remove/replace, but why take it out, lube, put it back in, and hope that it works instead of just replacing it once?
Lube might get you another year or so out of it, but your original cable lasted you, what, 16 years? Replace it and never worry about it again is what I say.
I lubed mine a year ago while the glue was drying on my gauge hood.I used the liquid / dry lubricant (don't know the name but it was the dry graphite in alcohol. Carries the graphite down the cable then dries out)
Seemed to work for a year or so, but the needle has been dancing again lately, on and off with the weather. I might not have gotten enough in there as I didn't pull the gauges out and it was a tight job. You may have better luck than I did.
Last edited by Jiggerachi; 01-07-2011 at 09:05 AM.
'94 C-Package Black & Tan | MS3x | exhintake | USDM Tein Monoflex 10/8k | My 8 year roadster evolution
Wow... This thread already has more great one liners than the average SNL episode.
I tried to lube mine with motorcycle cable lube. It didn't work very well. So, I installed a new cable and have had no more noise or jumpy needle.
On the track, I am fearless.
If you were as slow as me, you wouldn't be afraid either.
1994 M Edition
CSP 67
Mine is jumpy....the colder it is, the jumpier it is. I'll wait for it to die and put a new one in.
Mine was jumpy at low speed for about a week then just quit on me. Been procrastinating getting a new one put on. Guess I should get around to doing that soon :)
Got one on order! Thanks for the help!
Found this on the interweb! Very helpful!
Free pearl snap shirt or foil crown with every order from Ebay!
Seriously? It takes me longer to remove/replace that stupid piece under the steering wheel than it does to remove/replace the cluster and everything to get to it. I guess it's a good idea to not remove the cluster, but it's much easier on your back than the way the video shows.
The problem is how fragile the clusters are. That alone can add $100 to the repair bill.
+1 ... Definitely wait for some warmer weather.Originally Posted by Majik
I guess if someone feels the need to remove them with a hammer. Experience against experience, I have yet to break any removing them so I can't see how so many people claim to. I can't even say I'm all that gentle when I remove them either. But if I magically do start breaking some, that is a helpful video. Still think it'd take longer to do that than to just pull the cluster (and pulling it gives you a good reason to clean everything better than you can with it in the car).
LOL my original gauge hood turned to powder without anyone touching the gauge hood.
But I guess if my car sat in the garage in pieces waiting for someone to put it back together they the wear and tear would be a lot less.
BTW. My new gauge hood came off with no issues!
LOL Touche.But I guess if my car sat in the garage in pieces waiting for someone to put it back together they the wear and tear would be a lot less.
My gauge hood is the original one from 1990, so it's old. It's been out more times than I care to count, so I'd say it's been stressed more than most others. When I was doing a bunch of temp gauge mods for people, I pulled some cluster hoods with over 200k miles on them and have yet to break one. Maybe it's an east coast thing? Dunno. I can honestly say that I've never even *seen* a broken gauge hood in person.
And it'll be back together soon enough. I tried to work on it yesterday, but it's damn cold. I really need to up the door insulation and heater/cooler on the priority list.
I replace my speedo cable a few weeks ago. Only paid $20 for a new oem cable. Got it from Dr. Bob in College Station a while back when he was selling off his spare parts and 92 Sunburst. I swear you could have built a whole car out of all the spares he had.
1990 White NA - SOLD
1994 Black NA - SOLD
2006 Red NC - GT with limited slip, HIDs, all OEM.
Soooo... I take it you're going to run out and by a crown and matching belt buckle, then start working on that handlebar moustache?
'94 Black & Black & Tan
'99 head swap, JR header, TDR intake & header blanket, MegaSquirt, RB hollow bar, Tein Flex, 15x8 6ULs, HD M2 Sport, FM cat, Borla cat-back, black '95M interior, MOMO Zebrano, IL Motorsport console...
Dyno Days
8/16/08 (bone stock): 103.1 hp/99.0 lb-ft - Dynojet
8/23/08 (Borla cat-back): 108.2 hp/104.1 lb-ft - Dynojet
8/13/11 (more stuff...): 126 hp/116 lb-ft - Mustang dyno
Roger Moore: the Danny White of James Bonds
Already got two out of three!
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