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Thread: Texas FI'ed cooling solution?

  1. #21

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    Quote Originally Posted by Titus View Post
    I think he is referring to the NB, which may have a different bellypan than the NA? I don't think he cut anything off of the sides of my NA bellypan when he installed my intercooler, but I could be wrong.
    I have a 99.
    99 Silver - FFS MP62 hotside, Powercard Pro, e-Cool, BTB, Aquamist WI, FFS Fuel Rail, FM springs, KYB AGX, Azenis, HDSDD, 207HP

  2. #22

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    With the sides trimmed on my 05 I have no "flapping" or any other problems, even at above highway speeds
    2005 Lava Orange MSM #601/1428
    211 rwhp, 195 ft. lbs on 1/6/07

  3. #23

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    Well, due to my car getting to 230F in traffic, I recently replaced my thermostat with a 180F Stant. I don't remember the last time the T-stat was changed so I hoped this would help.

    Before, I would get to 210F and stay there until I started getting stuck in stop and go traffic. That's when the temp gauge would read upto 230F -speed up and down to 210F again.

    After the new T-Stat, I get to 195F until I started driving in slow traffic. I haven't had a chance to drive in stop and go traffic again, but yesterday the temp gauge read 200F or so driving at 45MPH. So, it looks like the new T-Stat only helped a little bit and really only is holding off the inevitable.

    FWIW, my temp sender is tapped into the upper rad hose coming out of the t-Stat housing going into the radiator.

    I may try trimming the side as Gary suggested.
    99 Silver - FFS MP62 hotside, Powercard Pro, e-Cool, BTB, Aquamist WI, FFS Fuel Rail, FM springs, KYB AGX, Azenis, HDSDD, 207HP

  4. #24

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    I think I'll be going with a Spal fan setup of some kind (FM's or some other) as well. If I'm moving I have no cooling problems, even with the AC on. But if I hit heavy traffic on a normal July afternoon temps start to climb toward melt-down. The stock fans just can't pull enough cool air. I replaced the stock 180 thermostat with a 160 and that did help a ton! Unfortunately the outside temp immediately dropped 15 degrees and hasn't been back, so I don't know how well the 160 thermostat will work when it's 110 outside.
    Skirt

    Silver '99, MP62, TDR Intercooler, Tein Flex, Borla Duals, HDHCDD, Oh and chicks dig the kilt!

  5. #25

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    Quote Originally Posted by scmx5driver View Post
    I think I'll be going with a Spal fan setup of some kind (FM's or some other) as well. If I'm moving I have no cooling problems, even with the AC on. But if I hit heavy traffic on a normal July afternoon temps start to climb toward melt-down. The stock fans just can't pull enough cool air. I replaced the stock 180 thermostat with a 160 and that did help a ton! Unfortunately the outside temp immediately dropped 15 degrees and hasn't been back, so I don't know how well the 160 thermostat will work when it's 110 outside.
    I'm very skeptical as to the 160F thermostat helping overheating. I went from a 195F to the 180F and while it does take longer to get to full temp, my car eventually still settles at 210F with both 180F and 195F thermostat.

    Additionally, the Miata's operating temperature is supposed to be at "around" 210F. If you are running your Miata much cooler than that, I doubt that is helping your engine operate under full effeciency.

    Your car SHOULD have no problems maintaining temps while moving. I think what we are all (big assumption) trying to do is to try to maintain that same temps while sitting still in traffic. Which is why we are trying running the fans in parellel, as well as improving engine bay airflow. Also, according to Gary, the OEM fans are enough to keep our cars cool. I don't know enough about this yet to disagree with him, so I'm working with the asumption that he is correct.
    99 Silver - FFS MP62 hotside, Powercard Pro, e-Cool, BTB, Aquamist WI, FFS Fuel Rail, FM springs, KYB AGX, Azenis, HDSDD, 207HP

  6. #26

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    Quote Originally Posted by chuckerants View Post
    Also, according to Gary, the OEM fans are enough to keep our cars cool. I don't know enough about this yet to disagree with him, so I'm working with the asumption that he is correct.
    I think that Gary is saying that stock fans move enough air IN PARALLEL. Mine, along with everyone car I have heard of with stock fans (not paralleled) and an Intercooler have problems with the heat creeping up in stop and go traffic when it is over 100* out. I have had this problem, and it sounds like most in this thread have too. I plan on implementing the parallel mod over the winter and will look for a change next summer. If it still has problems, I will look to SPAL.

  7. #27

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    I'm meeting with Tom @ FFS tmorrow so I can try out the new PC Pro on my car. The PC Pro as Tom will be selling it will come with a PnP wire harness which will make wiring in additional accessories a piece of cake. For example, I will be doing the parellel fan mod on the PnP wire harness before I plug in the PC Pro to see if it has an affect on the coolant temp.
    99 Silver - FFS MP62 hotside, Powercard Pro, e-Cool, BTB, Aquamist WI, FFS Fuel Rail, FM springs, KYB AGX, Azenis, HDSDD, 207HP

  8. #28

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    Well I have no problems keeping cool in traffic, but I do at high speeds. I still think airflow and fans are the solution.
    "Pain is inevitable, suffering is optional." Haruki Murakami

  9. #29

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    Quote Originally Posted by Flyin96M View Post
    Well I have no problems keeping cool in traffic, but I do at high speeds. I still think airflow and fans are the solution.
    The fans don't turn at high speed. They really don't need to.
    99 Silver - FFS MP62 hotside, Powercard Pro, e-Cool, BTB, Aquamist WI, FFS Fuel Rail, FM springs, KYB AGX, Azenis, HDSDD, 207HP

  10. #30

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    The fans have helped my car cool down. Hallett in a few weeks will be the big test.
    Smile
    93' LE #1136 - FM II
    250k miles

  11. #31
    Approved Vendor trackdog's Avatar
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    Temperatures increasing due to A/C or stop and go traffic is normal and should not be a concern. if you are NOT overflowing the radiator fluid out of the overfill bottle then most likely you are fine.

    Adding the 160 F t-stat works great during the 9 months of the year and would recommend for FI cars in particular. I see about 175 F on average on the street and at the track very seldom see over 215 F range when it is 90 deg. out. During winter it takes a long time to get the heater working so something to think about if your car is a daily driver.

    On the dual fan setup, the stock fans are more than adequate. Give you an idea, even with our TDR intercooler in front you can hold a piece of paper in front of the grill and it will suck it straight in. We have never had an over heat issue on the track or on the street with the A/C on, stop and stop more Dallas traffic.

    Setup the dual fans, cut the side panels off the belly pan (after the radiator on M1 cars) and limit air loses entering the radiator. We sell a radiator cover for 90-97 cars that covers the top section, this would be beneficial if you don't have something now.

    Gary
    Last edited by trackdog; 10-05-2006 at 07:55 AM.
    Danger!!! This Dog Bites.
    www.trackdogracing.com

  12. #32

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    Just so we are all on the same page, where are you getting your temp reading?

    I have an Autometer electric temp sender in the upper rad hose going from the T-Stat housing to the radiator.

    After doing the parellel fan mod, I do have temps that are no higher than 200~210F.
    99 Silver - FFS MP62 hotside, Powercard Pro, e-Cool, BTB, Aquamist WI, FFS Fuel Rail, FM springs, KYB AGX, Azenis, HDSDD, 207HP

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